Even though many people know it for being a land of bloodthirsty
vampires and never-ending forests, Transilvania is, in terms of natural
beauty, the best Romania offers.
Transilvania is certainly one of the most beautiful natural regions in
Europe, and all this is offered at a price far below that of, say, Germany
or France.
And if you're not into mountains, forests and landscapes, Transilvania
has all the history and culture you want - from medieval fortress towns
and monasteries to lively cities with stunning baroque architecture.
Although now part of Romania, the history of Transilvania has more to
do with Hungary and the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, as far as
administration is concerned. However the population has been and remains
overwhelmingly Romanian.
Nowadays, almost everyone in Transilvania speaks Romanian, though for
many of the ethnic Hungarians -- about 20% of the population, but far more
in certain areas -- Hungarian is actually their first language. Few native
German-speakers remain, but in any sizeable town you should be easily able
to find people who speak at least moderately good English, French, or
German.
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The Transilvania Region
Showing counties in white and towns in black
The Transilvanian Coat of Arms, 1659
Parts of Transilvania
The core region known today as Transilvania
consists of a region of 10 counties which cover over 80,000 km˛ in central
and northwest Romania. The counties of Alba, Bistriţa-Năsăud, Braşov, Cluj, Covasna,
Harghita, Hunedoara, Mureş, Sălaj, and Sibiu cover tradition
Transilvania.
Other minor subdivisions inside the region of Transilvania include the Amlaş, Ciceu,
Făgăraş, Haţeg, and Mărginimea Sibiului regions.
The most important cities are Cluj-Napoca (318,027), Timişoara
(317,651), Braşov (283,901), Sibiu
(155,045), and Târgu Mureş (149,577).
What's in a Name?
Transilvania was first referred to in a Latin document in 1075 as
"Ultra silvam", meaning "beyond the forest". That name was later changed
to "Transilvania", which has the same meaning.
The German name Siebenbürgen means "seven cities", after the
Transilvanian Saxons' cities in this region. The Hungarian name Erdély is
derived from the Hungarian "Erdő-elve" meaning "beyond the forest". The
Romanian name Ardeal is of uncertain origins.
Transilvania is relatively easy to access, due to its relative
economic prosperity, tourism industry and proximity to Central Europe.
Get On Board!
Trains are usually the best way to travel between major Transilvanian
cities and touristy destinations. However, many of the region's landmarks
lie hidden from major transportation routes, so it is recommended you
either rent a car or take buses to these places.
Mapping Your Way
You can find great and detailed road maps in any gas station
throughout the country, in train stations and in most newsstands. These
detailed road maps can lead you anywhere, without much guidance needed.
Be careful though for secondary and tertiary roads are not clearly
marked, so sometimes you have to ask for directions. People are usually
very friendly and will help you get to the destination of your choice.
Buses are becoming a popular means of transportation in Transilvania.
Usually, they leave from train stations in major cities, and stop in the
central area of smaller ones.
Safety First
Transilvania is not a land of dangers lurking around each darkened
corner. It houses a relatively large bundle of police headquarters, so
that if anything goes amiss in your journey, help will be close by.
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Transilvania is the largest region in Romania, and forms
the western and central parts of Romania. Transilvania was a principality
during the Middle Ages and has always formed a cohesive territory with
it's own identity under many different rules.
The Transilvanian plateau, 300 to 500 metres (1,000-1,600 feet) high, is
drained by the Mureş, Someş, Criş, and Olt rivers, as well as other
tributaries of the Danube.
This core of historical Transilvania roughly
corresponds with nine counties of Alba, Bistriţa-Năsăud,
Braşov, Cluj, Covasna, Harghita, Hunedoara, Mureş, and Sibiu. Other areas to the west
(Crişana) and north (Maramureş), also added to Romania by peace treaties in 1919-20, are since
that time sometimes considered part of Transilvania. We have
chosen to organise our website with Crişana and Banat as
separate regions.
The main city Cluj-Napoca, is considered to be the region's historic
capital (although Transilvania has for long been ruled from Alba-Iulia -
throughout its vassalage to the Ottoman Empire, and the seat of its Diet
was moved to Sibiu for some time in the 19th century).
In its extended version, mostly used in a Romanian cultural context,
the term Transilvania designates Transilvania-proper together with regions
that have had fluctuating status towards the core area, the Kingdom of
Hungary, the Habsburg Monarchy, or
Wallachian and Moldovan hospodars,
while some others are solely defined according to their cultural
specificity such as Banat,
Burzenland, Crişana (and its more traditional form, Partium), Maramureş,
Mezőség, Nösnerland, Székelyföld, and Ţara Moţilor.
Economy
Transilvania is rich in mineral resources, notably lignite, iron, lead,
manganese, gold, copper, natural gas, salt, and sulfur.
There are large iron and steel, chemical, and textile industries. Stock
raising, agriculture, wine production, and fruit growing are important
occupations. Timber is another valuable resource.
Transilvania accounts for around 35% of Romania's GDP, and has a GDP
per capita (PPP) of around $11,500, around 10% higher than the Romanian
average.
Population
According to the 2002 census, Transilvania has a population of
7,221,733, with a large Romanian majority (74.7%). In addition, there are
also sizeable Hungarian (19.6%), Roma (3.4%) and German (0.7%)
communities. 14 of the counties have Romanian majorities, and two are
mostly Hungarian.
Dialling Area code vary for each Transilvanian County
This website is a
general tourist guide, designed to help English-speaking tourists
understand Romania, and as such, provides historical
information for the interest of our traveller readers. History
can be a contentious issue, and we welcome input where readers think
clarification or correction is advisable. Please
e-mail us here
if you have questions or comments about anything in this history
section.
Although Kings Carol I and Ferdinand I were of the German Hohenzollern
dynasty, the Kingdom of Romania refused to join the Central Powers and
stayed neutral when the First World War began. In 1916 Romania joined the
Triple Entente by signing the Military Convention with the Entente, which
recognised Romania's rights over Transilvania.
Habsburg Transilvania before WWII
The three states which will become Romania all
under the control of the surrounding empires.
Romanians in Transilvania, 1911
For 1000 years since the first Hungarian
mercenaries marched, Transilvania was the eastern buffer state for the
west.
As a consequence of the Convention, Romania declared war against the
Central Powers on 27 August 1916, and crossed the Carpathian mountains
into Transilvania, thus forcing the Central Powers to fight on yet another
front. A German-Bulgarian counter-offensive began the following month in
Dobruja and in the Carpathians, driving the Romanian army back into
Romania by mid-October and eventually leading to the capture of Bucharest.
The exit of Russia from the war in March 1918 in the Treaty of
Brest-Litovsk left Romania alone in Eastern Europe, and a peace treaty
between Romania and Germany was negotiated in May 1918. However, the
resulting Treaty of Bucharest, never ratified in Romania, was denounced in
October 1918 by the Romanian government, which then re-entered the war on
the Allied side. The Romanian Army advanced to the Mureş river in
Transilvania.
By mid-1918 the Central Powers were losing the war, and the
Austro-Hungarian empire had begun to disintegrate. The nations living
inside Austria-Hungary proclaimed their independence from the empire
during September and October 1918. The leaders of Transilvania's National
Party met and drafted a resolution invoking the right of
self-determination (Woodrow Wilson's 14 points) of Transilvania's Romanian
people, and proclaimed the unification of Transilvania with Romania. In
November, the Romanian National Central Council, which represented all the
Romanians of Transilvania, notified the Budapest government that it had
assumed control of twenty-three Transilvanian counties and parts of three
others. A mass assembly on 1 December in Alba Iulia passed a resolution
calling for unification of all Romanians in a single state. The National
Council of the Germans from Transilvania approved the Proclamation, as did
the Council of the Danube Swabians from the Banat. In response, the
Hungarian General Assembly of Cluj reaffirmed the loyalty of Hungarians
from Transilvania to Hungary on December 22 1918.
Bolsheviks on the Borders
In December 1918 the Romanian army was stationed on the Mureş river,
but crossed the demarcation zone and advanced up to Cluj and then up to
Sighet, after making a request to the Powers of Versailles on the grounds
of protecting the Romanians in Transilvania. In February 1919, the
escalating violence in the area - Bolshevik elements were making efforts
to spread the "Bolshevik Revolution" - led to the creation of a Neutral
Zone between Romania and Hungary.
The Prime Minister of the newly proclaimed independent Republic of
Hungary resigned in March 1919, refusing to officially recognize the
Treaty of Versailles which placed Transilvania under the sovereignty of
Romania. When the Communist Party of Hungary, led by Béla Kun, came to
power in March 1919 it proclaimed the Hungarian Soviet Republic and after
promising that Hungary would regain the lands that were under its control
during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it decided to attack Czechoslovakia
and Romania.
The Hungarian Army began the offensive in Transilvania in April 1919
along the Someş, and Mureş rivers. A Romanian counter-offensive pushed
forward to reach - and halt at - the Tisa River in May. A new Hungarian
offensive in July penetrated 60 km into Romanian lines before a further
Romanian counter-offensive led to the occupation of the Hungarian capital
Budapest in August, putting an end to the Hungarian Soviet Republic. The
Romanian army withdrew from Hungary between October 1919 and March 1920.
Romanian Transilvania, 1920-1940
Both the Treaties of Trianon and Versailles gave
Romania it's greatest area, and returned Transilvania to the Kingdom
of Romania
Greater Romania (1920 - 1940)
The Romanian term "România Mare" is sometimes translated as "Greater
Romania", both to refer to the historic notion, and to translate the name
of the political party.
In 1918, at the end of World War I, Transilvania and Bessarabia united
with the Romanian Old Kingdom, Transilvania united by a Proclamation of
Union of Alba Iulia voted by the Deputies of the Romanians from
Transilvania; Bessarabia, having declared its independence from Russia in
1917 by the Conference of the Country (Sfatul Ţarii), called in Romanian
troops to protect the province from the Bolsheviks who were spreading the
Russian Revolution.
The Treaty of Versailles, formally signed in June 1919, recognised the
sovereignty of Romania over Transilvania. The Treaties of St. Germain
(1919) and Trianon (signed on June 1920) further elaborated the status of
Transilvania and defined the new border between the states of Hungary and
Romania. King Ferdinand I of Romania and Queen Maria of Romania were
crowned at Alba Iulia in the year 1922.
In August 1940, during the Second World War, Adolf Hitler gave the
northern half of Transilvania to Hungary by the second Vienna Diktat. The
Treaty of Paris (1947) after the end of the Second World War rendered the
Vienna Diktat, and the territory of northern Transilvania was returned to
Romania. The post-WWII borders with Hungary, agreed on at the Treaty of
Paris were identical with those set out in 1920.
Hungarian Transilvania, 1940 - 1947
Northern Transilvania, 1941-1947
After the Vienna Awards of 1940, Cluj and Brasov
became border towns with Nazi Hungary
The northern part of Transilvania were ceded to the Hungarians
during the Nazi occupation, awarded by Germany and Italy to Hungary in
line with the Vienna Awards of 1940.
It was returned to Romania only in 1947, when the Treaty of Paris
defined the border between Romania and Hungary as the same as those
defined in the Treaty of Trianon in 1920. The basis of claiming the whole
Transilvania or at least a part of it was based on Transilvania having
ethnic Hungarians as rulers in the Middle Ages and on Transilvania's being
a part of or politically-socially interrelated to the Kingdom of Hungary
from 10th century up to 1920, marking the end of the First World War.
The Treaty was felt an unfair measure by Romania, considering that
Transilvania had become part of Romania in 1918 as a result of the
population's will, something similar to a referendum but not quite- not
quite, so did 32% of the population became Romanian subjects against their
will, some of them living directly close to the new borders between
Romania and Hungary.
In 1940, the joint German/Italian Second Vienna Award gave Northern
Transilvania to Hungary, which held it until 1944. Historian Keith
Hitchins (1994) summarizes the situation created by the award:
"Far from settling matters, the Vienna Award had exacerbated
relations between Romania and Hungary. It did not solve the nationality
problem by separating all Magyars from all Romanians. Some 1,150,000 to
1,300,000 Romanians, or 48 per cent to over 50 per cent of the
population of the ceded territory, depending upon whose statistics are
used, remained north of the new frontier, while about 500,000 Magyars
(other Hungarian estimates go as high as 800,000, Romanian as low as
363,000) continued to reside in the south. "
During this period, some members of the Hungarian minority participated
in discriminating policies and harassment against the Romanian population.
Feature
Hungarians in Transilvania`
About Hungarian Populations in Transilvania
Try these Select Links for Understanding the
Szekely People in Romania
There were ten districts of the territory inhabited
by a compact population of
Szekely Hungarians across two regions.
Hungarians Today in Romania
Ranging from a 95% density in County Harghita, to
under 10% in other Transilvanian Counties, the
Szekely Hungarians cover all of the former principality.
Like Jews living in Hungary, most of the Jews in Northern Transilvania
(about 150,000) were sent to concentration camps during the World War II.
Some of the Romanian population, in this region fled or was expelled, and
the same happened with many Hungarians in the Southern Transilvania- there
was a real exodus, over 100 000 people changed their residences on the two
sides.
Romanians living in that area were victims to countless atrocities for
the simple fact that they were not Hungarians. Unfortunately atrocities
against Romanian persons with death tolls are recorded to be just under
1000. This was duly repaid as Romanian troops entered Transilvania in
1944, when similar, wicked acts were committed against civilians. The
Soviet military administration had to declare martial law and subdue
Romanian military administration to stop the bloodshed against ethnic
Hungarian civilians.
The Hungarian Autonomous Province, 1952 - 1968
The Hungarian Autonomous Province (Romanian: Regiunea Autonoma
Maghiară) was an autonomous region in the Romanian Peoples'
Republic between 1952 and 1968. It comprised ten districts of the
territory inhabited by a compact population of Szekely Hungarians.
The total population of this province was, according to the 1956
census, composed of: Hungarians (77.3%), Romanians (20.1%),
Gypsies (1.5%), Germans (0.4%) and Jews (0.4%). The official
languages of the province were Hungarian and Romanian and the
provincial administrative centre was Târgu Mureş.
In December 1960 a governmental decree modified the boundaries
of the Hungarian Autonomous Province. Its southern part was
attached to Stalin Province,
which was later renamed Braşov County. In place of this, several
districts were joined to it from the southwest. The province was
no longer called the Hungarian Autonomous Province but the Mureş-Hungarian
Autonomous Province, after the River Mureş. The ratio of
Hungarians was thus reduced from 77.3 percent to 62 percent.
In 1968, the Romanian government put an end to the
administrative division of the country into regions and
re-introduced the judeţ (county) system, still used today. This
also automatically eliminated the Mureş-Hungarian Autonomous
Province and replaced it with counties that are not identified
with any nationality. The three new counties formed on the
majority of the territory of former Hungarian Autonomous Province
are Mureş, Harghita and Covasna.
Today, in two of these counties, Harghita and Covasna,
Hungarians form the majority of inhabitants. The official
languages are no longer set by county, and the minority rights are
set by municipality (city or commune). In the municipalities in
which a certain minority forms more than 20% of the population,
the local administration must allow the minority members to use
their native tongue in dealing with the administration and the
state shall provide education and public signage in that language.