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Curtea de Argeş
and the Upper Argeş River
Valley
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In County Argeş
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Curtea de Argeş: The Old Capital City
The modern history of the Romanian
people came together in Curtea de Argeş as
the home of Romania's first princes in the 14th Century, and is the
burial place of Romania's 20th Century kings and queens.
Perched on
the right bank of the Argeş River as it flows out of the Făgăraş
chain of the Carpathian mountains, Curtea de Argeş developed
along the river, capitalising on it's position as a trade route
between the plains and the mountain passes to the north.
The city is one of the oldest in Romania and served
an important function as the capital of the nascent Wallachia
principality at the very birth of what is now a national Romania.
Founded early in the 14th century by Prince Radu
Negru,
Curtea succeeded Câmpulung as capital of Wallachia, with a full
palatial court and church complex built by Basarab I.
As a tourist, you've lucked out with the great road signs and
informative signs showing you the main sights of the town.
From your arrival at the great old 1900s train station or the
bus station nearby, once you hit the main boulevard, you'll find the
major attractions nicely marked in this tourist-friendly town.
Cool Curtea!
The town is on the railway
and on the road
from Piteşti to the Turnu Roşu Pass to the north, making
Curtea de Argeş the de facto gateway to
the beautiful Făgăraş mountains to the north.
Holding treasures like the
real Dracula
castle at Poienari, the deep emerald waters of Lake Vidraru and it's
dam, and of course, perched high atop the mountains, Bâlea
Lake, frozen through the summer months at over 2000 metres high!
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Curtea de Argeş
Old church complex is a vibrant and beautiful
reminder of the timelessness of Romanian faith and architecture
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The main not-to-be missed attraction in this old town is indeed the
remains of Wallachia's oldest administrative building, dating from the
14th century, and the amazingly well preserved church (the oldest in
it's original form in Wallachia) adjacent to the court, also from the
mid 1300s.
A statue of Prince Basarab I stands guard over his creation, a great
old church. This court, palace and church complex in many ways marked
the incept of Romnanian nationalism, solidifying further the trend of a
strong administration for the region. The first Prince Basarab was
buried in his church in 1352, with his son completing the palatial court
complex soon after his death.
Don't miss the great old Byzantine frescoes painted during this time,
now being painstakingly restored by removing overlays of more recent
works.
Open Daily except Mondays, 10a - 6p
A reasonable adjunct to your photo-taking at the old church and
court is the municipal museum, with informative panels and displays
showing what early Wallachia was like in this very important region in
Romania's history.
Curtea de Argeş served as the regional capital
for Wallachia during an important period of Romania's history, on
capital in a chain which lead out of the mountains, and down onto the
wide Wallachian plains to where it is today at Bucharest.
Open Daily Except Mondays, 9a - 3p. Str. Negru
Vodă, 0248 711446
See also the San Nicoara Ruins (behind the museum),
worth a quick look and some more photos!
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Frescoes of the Curtea de Argeş Monastery Church
The Vibrant Colours of the French rehabilitation
showing the Coronation of Romania's first King and Queen in the 19th
Century.
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Built by yet another in the succession of Princes
Basarab, the delightfully ornate and grand vision which is the
Curtea de Argeş monastery, complete with it's
centrepiece church is sure to impress.
About a kilometre up the main drag (busses run
frequently up B-dul Basarabilor) from the Princely Court is this
wondrous little church, part of the main monastery complex there.
Warning:
This is a Very Bad Day
to Forget Your Camera!
Just make sure you stand very still and look only at
small portions at one time of this astonishingly ornate church, or else
you will come dizzy from the elaborate details of small flowers and
wings, intricate lace-like patterns, and lavish twists and fanciful
trim.
All this architectural brou-ha-ha culminates in twin
towers equally festooned with giddy abandon by the clearly inspired architect. First finished in the early 1500s, the
current Monastery Church was "rehabilitated" in the late 1800s by French
workers. This makes much of the more recent mosaics and
woodwork as more of a French or Italian influence than being strictly
Romanian, but it's still a sight to behold.
Romania's royalty are buried here in white marble
tombs, including Romania's first modern King, Carol I and next to him
Queen Elizabeth, buried here in 1914 and 1916 respectively.
Ferdinand I and Queen Mary are also there, the last
Romanian monarchs to die, the English-born Mary in 1938.
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Church of the Master
The main church in Curtea de Argeş
looking great with some mid-winter snows on the grounds
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If you've already been to the beautiful Cotroceni
Palace in Bucharest, you will have seen that Mary was indeed a spiritual
and interesting woman. You may be surprised to learn her heart is
not buried in Curtea de Argeş at all, but is in
fact entombed in golden box at Castle Bran up the road a ways towards
Braşov!
In addition to the royal burial grounds and great old
frescoes, have a look at Manole's well in the small park across from the
church. The well is part of a natural spring there, although
some vaguely amusing folklore surrounds the well, supposedly made by the
builder of the Monastery Church as he jumped off (or was pushed off, the story
varies slightly).
If you like what you see, there is another church in
Ceahlau in the Moldova region which
has similar tours and figures on it, although built in wood, it's
typical of the era.
Open Daily, 9am - 6pm, 60 lei admission, 30 lei
cameras
Read More about the Monastery
Church in
History Below!
Another important church is the Biserica
Domnească (Church of the Master, meaning the Prince or Lord
of the Local Ruling Family) built by Mircea cel Bătrân, completely
renovated in 2003-2004.
It resembles a stone fortress, connected through
catacombs to a guard tower on a nearby hill.
Other Interesting Stops in town: sBiserica Olari, and the Dumitru Norocea memorial
residence.
The Real Dracula's Castle
Perched eerily in it's aerie atop a strategic
crest, it was built by the "real" Dracula, Vlad
Ţepeş using forced Turk labour. The views from the
battlements are stunning.
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Most tourists will be shocked to find out that Poienari
is actually the real castle home of Dracula. If indeed you believe
that Vlad Ţepeş was actually Dracula of course!
Poienari Castle looms in a convincing and dramatic
manner over the deep cuts of the valley walls, looking very much the
part for all things sinister. Whilst not as ornate as the more
visited name-sake castles to the east and north, Poienari is nonetheless
the actual home and fortification built by the Dark Prince.
See where the Bride of Dracula
Leapt to Her
Death!
The wife of Vlad the Impaler
supposedly threw herself out the window at Poienari Castle rather than
allow herself to be captured by the Turks besieging the castle at the
time.
Vlad escaped by affixing horseshoes which looked like
cowprints in the riverbank mud of the Argeş
river, vexing his Ottoman trackers.
Ţepeş managed to take quite a
few Turk invaders as hostage, and forced them into building much of the
building's foundations. A long series of steps (about 15
minutes) lead up from
the hydroelectric facility along the lake, with an attendant charging 1€
per person.
Catch a maxi-taxi from near the train station or along
the main boulevard (Basarabilor), and you'll be delivered right to the
steps of the castle (about 40 lei each). It's open 9am - 5pm
daily, and entry is 20 lei, with an extra 10 lei camera fee.
The maxi-taxi stop is down the road a bit from the steps if there is not
one waiting at the steps.
Although not quite a natural lake as it was formed by
damming the Argeş river for a hydroelectric plant
in the early 1960s, Vidraru is nonetheless a rather stunning
mountain valley lake, a favourite of locals and tourists alike.
An afternoon swim after a day of sightseeing is a great
mid-afternoon pastime in the summer months before returning to
Curtea de Argeş.
There are several great chalets, cabins and roadside
inns around Lake Vidraru, offering everything from a quick bite to eat
or a week-long holiday resort.
See More in Accommodation Below
For those continuing north,
beyond Vidraru the road turns into the rather amazing
Transfăgărăşean highway, which climbs and twists
and turns it's way north to crest the Făgăraş
mountain chain in a long tunnel which breaks into a surreal Alpine
landscape.
The dam took 5˝ years to complete, entering service
in 1965, and was actually quite advanced for it's day, only the fifth
such dam to be built in Europe and the ninth in the world.
Today
the dam produces around 450GW annually, contributing to the roughly 20%
Romania gets from it's many hydroelectric plants -- an admirably high
percentage when compared to the hydroelectric production of
English-speaking countries (Australia is less than 1% for example).
The road situation is posted before you go to far, as
it's often closed, even in summer months due to snow berms across the
road on the Sibiu side. See more on
our County Sibiu page.
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Dracula's Mountaintop Fortification
Just north of Curtea de Argeş, with stunning
views
of the mountains and plains below, this was
where the real Dracula fought off Turkish invaders. About a
third of the castle collapsed down the steep mountain, but most of
it remains, including the residence section.
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From the Rest Romania Website at
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North-Eastern Argeş
This delightful region is typified by gorgeous little villages at
the foot of forested mountains as the rivers and streams climb higher
into the stunning Făgăraş mountains to the north.
Countless river valleys follow one another in bucolic idyll, and
some of the best accommodation options and values are hidden in small
pensiunes where the family may run one, two or three rooms, in a sort of
farmstay arrangement.
On your way back from Vidraru, the great little village
of Arefu can offer a glimpse into the Argeşean
way of life.
Supposedly inhabited by descendants of the servants and
courtiers of the original Dracula, Vlad Ţepeş,
the villagers are fairly well-rehearsed in their standard lore, which
can be rather entertaining if you stay there long enough for a good
chat.
If you have time to stay with some villagers, check in
at the library in town or with some of the properties listed with
Antrec for some good homestays.
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Listed below are some local agents who can help you with bookings and organize
local tours
in the Curtea de Argeş area.
Check in with Mariana at Sol Turism advice on local transportation, train tickets,
and sites to see in Curtea de Argeş and tours across România!
            +40
(248) 721 806 FAX:
+40 (248)
721 806
        +40
(248) 506116 FAX:
+40 (248)
223567
       +40
(248) 721451 FAX:
+40 (248)
506047
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See a Road Map of the Curtea de Argeş Area
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See More Maps of Romania and
Curtea de Argeş at
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See a Map of the Lake Vidraru Area

See a General Area Map of Curtea de Argeş

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More Street Maps of Curtea de Argeş at
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See Other Towns in County Argeş Here
Check out the Weather in Curtea de Argeş here!
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From the Rest Romania Website at
Transportation
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The Curtea de Argeş Train Station
Yeah another rather interesting train station,
this in the Mogul style.
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Trains
Five daily services serve Curtea de Argeş from
the county seat of County Argeş,
Piteşti,
and the Personal service, which stops along the way like any suburban
train, takes about 90 minutes to get there from Piteşti.
Once into the station, it's only about 1km to the main hotel, the
Posada, or you can get a taxi there for next to nothing.
Maxi Taxis and Busses
Maxi-taxis and busses both leave from just next to the train station in
Curtea de Argeş, with services locally and to all
major near destinations such as Piteşti and Braşov, and all stops along
the way. Maxi-taxis also depart from next to the
monastery church as
well.
HINT: Be nice to your local taxi or maxi taxi driver! This
is the best way for you to get to nearby villages and sites, and a
little tip might help to get some good information on where to find a
taxi for your return trip! Tipping is an art form in Romania, so
learn it fast, and you will have great transportation everywhere.
You can use the bus service to go up to Arefu village, and of course,
busses depart for Braşov, Piteşti, Râmnicu-Vâlcea and
Bucureşti daily.
Air Service
If you are flying in from Vienna or
Munich, Sibiu is slightly closer to Curtea de Argeş
than Bucharest, and probably makes a more interesting stopover in
Romania too!
You can maxi-taxi, bus or train to Curtea de
Argeş from either airport in Bucharest or in Sibiu.
Both airports have
domestic non-stop flights
from Timişoara as well, and non-stop
international flights to Vienna and Munich from Sibiu, and all major
capitals from Bucharest.
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The Hotel Posada
Centrally located with all the western-style
amenities English-speaking travellers expect.
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Cabana Cumpana
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Photo: Mihai Paşol
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Listed below are some local hotels, guesthouses (B&Bs) and other accommodation in the Curtea de Argeş area.
Cabana Valea cu Pesti, Arefu in ArefuThe Cabana cu Pesti chalet (Fish Lodge) was once owned by the son of Nicolae Ceausescu and then fell to the communist hierarchy. 248 506047 FAX: 248 506047 Cabana Pârâul Capra, Arefu in ArefuThe chalet at Cabana Pârâul Capra (Chamois Brook Lodge) was once the hunting chalet of Nicolae Ceausescu, the mad dictator. A truly fabulous location in the summer months. 740 135105 FAX: 248 506047 Cabana Cumpana, Arefu in ArefuThe lodge sports a day bar, restaurant and camping with 26 cabins. Located at the edge of Lake Vidraru with great views, there are 3000 square metres reserved for trailers and tents. 248 721451 FAX: 248 506047 Pensiunea Vidraru, Arefu in ArefuThe pension is just 12 km away of the Vidraru Dam, with 10 queen rooms featuring TV and bathrooms with shower stalls. 744 349033 Pensiunea Meridian, Oesti in CorbeniThe Meridian Guesthouse is placed on the river Arges's banks, offering you a rather charming vacation with your loved ones. 745 033140 Pensiunea Haiducu, Corbeni in CorbeniPlaced on the Argeş Vally, the Haiducu Pension is the perfect place for your vacation, a place you won't want to leave! 744 289464 Pensiunea Belvedere, Corbeni in CorbeniThe pension offers a great view, from the terrace and from the yard, of Cheile Argeşului. 721 031205 Pensiunea Daniela, Corbeni 260 in CorbeniThe pension is placed 7 km away from the Vidraru Lake with great views. 744 660224 Pensiunea Ana, Corbeni 71 in CorbeniThe pension is placed 7km up the river Argeş from Vidraru Dam, in the middle of the nature. 745 555859 Pensiunea Aurora, Corbeni 231 in CorbeniThe Aurora pension is placed at an altitude of 600 metres in Corbeni. 248 730387 Pensiunea Ruxi, Strada Negru Voda 104 in Curtea de ArgeşYou want to visit the historical monuments in Curtea de Argeş? Enjoy this extremely picturesque area with quick access to the Olt Valley and Făgăraş Mountains. 727 827675 Pensiunea Montana, Strada Basarabilor 72 in Curtea de ArgeşMontana guesthouse is placed in Curtea de Argeş proper, about half-way between the Argeş monastery and the Lord's Church. 248 722364 Hotel Confarg, Strada Negru Voda 5 in Curtea de ArgeşThe Confarg Hotel sleeps 39, in 3 doubles, 4 apartments (with jacuzzi) and air conditioning, and 5 singles. 248 728020 FAX: 248 506171 Cabana Bârlogul Ursilor, Slatina 236 in NucsoaraThe lodge is located in a superbly beautiful area, it's name meaning Lair of the Bear! 248 270174 Pensiunea Montan Turist, Vateni in SalatrucuAn acceptable place with nice views. 248 721923 |
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See also County Argeş
for accommodation in other nearby towns |
The area code for County Argeş is (248) or (348)
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The Curtea de Argeş Monastery Church c. 1880,
as fantastic then as it is now!
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History of the Monastery Church
The Monastery Church of Curtea de Argeş (early 16th century) is
one of the most famous buildings in Romania, and stands in the grounds
of a monastery, 1 1/2 m north of Curtea de Argeş. It is dedicated to
Saint Nicholas.
It resembles a very large and elaborate mausoleum, built in
Byzantine style, with Moorish arabesques. In shape it is oblong, with a
many-sided annex at the back. In the centre rises a dome, fronted by two
smaller cupolas, while a secondary dome, broader and loftier than the
central one, springs from the annex.
Each summit is crowned by an inverted pear-shaped stone, bearing a
triple cross, emblematic of the Trinity.
The windows are mere slits; those of the tambours (the cylinders on
which the cupolas rest) are curved and slant at an angle of 70 degrees,
as though the tambours were leaning to one side. Between the pediment
and the cornice a thick corded moulding is carried round the main
building.
Above this, comes a row of circular shields, adorned with
intricate arabesques, while bands and wreaths of lilies are everywhere scupltured on the windows, balconies, tambours and cornices, adding
lightness to the fabric. It is all raised on a platform 7 ft. high and
encircled by a stone balustrade.
Facing the main entrance is a small open shrine, consisting of a
cornice and dome upheld by four pillars. The Monastery Church is faced with
pale grey limestone, easily chiselled but hardening on exposure. The
interior is of brick, plastered and decorated with frescoes.
Close by
stands a large royal palace, Moorish in style. The archives of the
Monastery Church were plundered by Hungarians and Turks, but several
inscriptions, Greek, Slav and Roman, are left.
One tablet records that the founder was Prince Neagoe Basarab
(1512-1521); another that Prince Ioan Radu completed the work in 1526; a
third describes the repairs executed in 1681 by Prince Şerban
Cantacuzino; a fourth, the restoration, in 1804, by Joseph, the first
bishop. Between 1875 and 1885 the Monastery Church was reconstructed, and in
1886 it was reconsecrated.
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The Monastery Church Curtea de Argeş
Soon after being rebuilt, a lone preist poses in
front of the fantastical creation.
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Photo:
Christian Balan from Unknown Source
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The Charm of Rural Religion
The Gorgeous Little Church of the Angelic Saints
(or Holy Saints, from "Sf. Îngeri"). Clad in modest
white since 1717, and beloved by the devout in Curtea de
Arges.
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Legends
Its legends have inspired many Romanian poets, among them
the celebrated Vasile Alecsandri. One tradition describes how Neagoe
Basarab, while a hostage in Constantinople, designed a splendid mosque
for the sultan, returning to build the Monastery Church out of the surplus
materials.
Another version has Radu Negru employing one Meşterul Manole or
Manoli as architect. Manole being unable to finish the walls, the prince
threatened him and his assistants with death. At last Manole suggested
that they should follow the ancient custom of placing a living woman
into the foundations; and that she who first appeared on the following
morning should be the victim. The other masons warned their families,
and Manole was forced to sacrifice his own wife.
Thus the Monastery Church was built. When Manole and his masons told the
prince that they could always build an even greater building, Radu Negru
had them stranded on the roof so that they could not build something to
match it. They fashioned wooden wings and tried to fly off the roof,
but, one by one, they all fell to the ground. A spring of clear water,
named after Manole, is said to mark the spot where he fell.
This motif is widespread in South Eastern Europe, most notably also
in Russia, like the blinding of the Masons of Vasili Blajenii Cathedral
by Ivan the Terrible.
The Prime Prince of Curtea de
Argeş
Neagoe Basarab was the Voivode (Prince) of Wallachia between 1512
and 1521. Born into the boyar family of the Craioveşti (his reign marks
the climax of the family's political influence) as the son of Pârvu
Craiovescu or Basarab Ţepeluş cel Tânăr, Neagoe Basarab, who replaced
Vlad cel Tânăr after the latter rejected Craioveşti tutelage, was noted
for his abilities and competence.
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Neagoe Basarab
Possibly not the most attractive prince of his
time, a boyar to the last. Below is Neagoe Basarab pictured on
the murals of the Curtea de Argeş Monastery
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In the 16th century, Wallachia was independent, but was required to
pay an exorbitant tribute to the greater force of the Ottoman Empire.
Neagoe encouraged the development of crafts and trade, while maintaining
a good relation with Wallachia's other powerful neighbour, Hungary.
His diplomacy attempted to establish connections with the Republic
of Venice and the Papacy, even offering to mediate the dispute between
Eastern Orthodoxy and Roman Catholicism, with the purpose of uniting
Christendom against the Ottoman threat.
He adopted the Byzantine tradition of Church patronage, making
generous donations to the Orthodox monasteries, not only in Wallachia
but throughout the Balkans.
During his reign the Curtea de Argeş Monastery was built (in
1517) - legend names Meşterul Manole as the chief craftsman; the account
also fuses Neagoe with yet another legendary figure, Prince Radu (who
would've caused Manole's death by ordering for the scaffolding to be
removed while the builders were on the roof, ensuring that nobody would
use Manole's craft, and thus preserving the uniqueness of the
structure).
Neagoe ordered the earliest works on the old Metropolitan church in
Târgovişte (the city where the edition of the Gospels was published in
1512) and the church in Şcheii Braşovului.
Neagoe Basarab wrote one of the earliest Romanian literary works,
called Învăţăturile lui Neagoe Basarab către fiul său Teodosie ("The
teachings of Neagoe Basarab to his son Theodosie"), which he touches
various subjects such as philosophy, diplomacy, morals and ethics. |
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Read More about Curtea de Argeş at:
The Curtea de Argeş town hall |
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From the Rest Romania Website at
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