Welcome to Eforie Nord in County Constanţa,
part of the Dobrogea region of Romania! Discover historic Constanţa and
surrounding villages, see things to do and understand the rich Dobrogea
culture unfolding in historic county Constanţa. Rest Romania will help
you find the perfect hotel or B&B in our section on Eforie Nord lodging, B&B
(bed and breakfast), or great activities further out in County Constanţa.
Check
out your transportation options in Eforie Nord in County Constanţa, part of
the region of Dobrogea in Romania. Find your accommodation options in
either Eforie Nord or Constanţa, with fun things to do from eoc-tourism, to
nearby hiking and even skiing.
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Quiet little back streets meld effortlessly with a
charming promenade and beautiful sea views from the hotels and
restaurants along the low cliff which protects the golden sands of
Eforie Nord.
Indeed there are quite a few reasons that relaxing
little Eforie Nord made our number one pick for your beach holiday.
The sea and beaches are cleaner than at Mamaia, it's close to the
shopping centres on the south side of Contanţa,
and close enough to rail, air and bus services.
The one possibly saving grace of the Communist era was
the lack of heavy tourist development which ravaged many a quite seaside
town in other spots throughout Europe during the 1960s and 1970s.
As we all know, some development is a good thing, too much an eyesore.
Eforie successfully maintains it's village feel.
Although Eforie Nord is number two after Mamaia in
terms of popularity, the little town offers a real Romanian seaside
village feel, with year-round residents adding to the town's
amenities like easy-to-access grocery stores, chemists and other
services not as available in Mamaia's hyper-commercial atmosphere.
The bulk of the holiday accommodation at Eforie (Eforie
Nord is often "the" Eforie, with it's southern cousin a smaller centre)
is made up of the guesthouses (pensions or "pensiune"), smaller bed and
breakfast type accommodation in people's homes, and smaller hotels with
less than 20 rooms. See our
Romanian
Accommodation section for explanations of these types of
properties).
Yes, there are a few of the lower 3 and 4 storey blocks intended for
working class holiday-makers on a budget, but equally there are some
four-star hotels and truly world-class restaurants.
The Northern End at Eforie Nord
Great golden sands and beach boy service
for a lazy afternoon with a great view
Eforie Charm
This hotel with a great position and
good food on Str Republicii is open late. Try the
pizzas or pastas for lunch, all very well done!
There are a few hotel towers here, on the fringes, and
they really haven't robbed the main cliffside walk or the beach areas of
their smaller feel. Finding things to do and things to buy is easy
in Eforie, as the main shopping streets are all connected to the beach
areas.
Eforie's beaches run for 3 kilometres along the coast,
with nine breakwalls going out into the water with the signature
Y-shaped ends which so ably protect the golden sands and encourage
routine deposits as well.
Eating out is a joy in Eforie, with options for all ages
and wallets. Any traveller will delight in a lunchtime
bottle of wine, a linen table cloth, good table service, great food, and
a stunning view out over the cliff to the golden sands below and the
vibrant deep aqua of the Black Sea to the horizon. What's better,
is that you can enjoy liveried wait staff and get out without tipping
for about $10 per head!
Despite all the good offerings from the various pensions,
it's hard for a Westerner to miss the towering ANA Hotel Europa in the
town centre, with a roomy reception area, ample pool and spa facilities
and surrounding green lawns.
Just to the north of Eforie Nord, and situated on the
main road going south from Constanţa about 10km from the
Constanţa city centre, Agigea is about 3km inland from the
seashore.
Known through it's Bone and Joint hospital functioning in
the years between the great wars, Agigea is likewise known for it's
unique reservations of marine dunes, the largest in
România. With the Danube-Black Sea canal opening at
last in 1984, Agigea is the commercial gateway to the sea with the
canarrl opening to the Port of South Constanţa, making up 2,500 hectares
with over 10,000 metres of breakwalls and wing structures.
Agigea offers a great place for viewing the sea traffic through the
canal and into the port area as well.
Eforie Sud is about 2km to the south of the main Eforie
Nord township, and offers a bit more quiet, although certainly fewer
facilities. A recent injection of cash from EU funding has seen
things change a bit, with building underway and a few new accommodation
blocks now finished.
Eforie Sud is a great place to avoid the crowds and yet
still be close-in enough to Mamaia and Constanţa
if the need for shopping, malls, or some fun rides happens to strike
you. You'll find the same leafy streets, the great little
quiet squares, and some seriously cheap eats throughout Eforie Sud.
Enjoy the wonderful views from the steep hills and cliff tops down to
the beaches too, it's really quite lovely.
If you're beach-walking, you can still make your way
around the headlands and cliffs to the Eforie Sud beaches from the south
end of the Eforie Nord strip, and you'll find a quieter, more
working-class sort of feel at Eforie Sud, well away from the throbbing
pulse of the summer time crowd at Eforie Nord.
Ten years ago you'd be hard-pressed to hear anything but
Romanian and a bit of English spoken at Eforie Sud, but now German,
Russian, and French is heard more often. Economy discount charter
flights from Dortmund and Hamburg during the summer months to the
airport near Constanţa have meant a bit of
overflow from the other resorts, and word-of-mouth has Eforie Sud on the
rise.
But, despite the slight increase in foreigners, Eforie
Sud is still a great little getaway place, especially if you have
transportation like a hire car or don't mind the Personal trains.
Few know today that between the great wars of last century, Eforie Sud
(or Carmen Sylva as it was known then) was
the top luxury resort on the whole Black Sea coast!
The little harbour at Eforie Nord with a private
beach area. A concrete roadway links the enclosed club area to
the main southern beach and the Hotel Europa.
Eforie
Nord and the facilities at Techirghiol make the area a world famous
spa resort in the Eastern European tradition of various mud
treatments, massages, and electro-therapy as well.
If you want a sublime quality of rich black mineral mud, come to
Techirghiol. It's the only coastal resort which is specifically
designed for balneal treatments, and attracts those afflicted with
rheumatism and gynaecological ails, with big players
Gerovital, Boicil and Pell-Amar all having a presence.
Long before the beaches of Eforie became famous as the top
luxury resort on the coast in the 1920s, it was the magical mud of
Techirghiol which were renown throughout the Ottoman empire and
continuing through the first modern spa facilities in the late
1800s.
The faithful still flock today, with woman's and men's
segregated beach facilities for nude mud-bathing on the eastern
shores closer to the rail line and highway, and more community
oriented bathing at the town of Techirghiol on the western shore.
It's far cheaper to slap on the mud here than at your hotel,
costing about $3, with about $5 for a massage. In the town of
Techirghiol, don't miss the statue of the donkey which supposedly
found the miraculous muds one day, and stop by the slightly
out-of-place old wooden church from Maramureş
in front of the the church-run spa complex. The
church (to right) was moved first to Sinaia in the 1920s, and then
moved again to Techirghiol in the early 1950s.
Cool and Crazy Costineşti
A great beach and a young crowd ensure the fun
and games continue around the clock
Funny little Costineşti
started out as a fishing village and was one of the last current-day
resorts to be developed between
Constanţa (30km south)
and Mangalia.
Costineşti's jewel in the
crown is undoubtedly it's beautifully long and sweeping 2 kilometre
long beach, unfettered by the cliffs found at other Black Sea
resorts. The adjoining town evolved from a small fisherman's
village in the 1960s to become a favoured summer destination for
young people and students. A hotel, as well as several villa
complexes were erected during the Communist era, which targeted
Costineşti for it's first Young Pioneers
Youth Camp in 1948, a way of keeping the kiddies entertained and
indoctrinated, with the first student's international camp in 1956.
After the Revolution of course, much of the facilities
were modernized, and private construction, especially to the north of
the resort, has taken off, and you can now find several 6 - 8 storey
little hotel accommodation towers, offering rather good beach and coast
views.
The resort also has a small inland lake, around which
several lodges are located. The little village of
Schitu, founded in the late 1800s by German colonists, is included
in the Costineşti commune. There’s lots of little hotels,
villas, campgrounds, restaurants, bars and nightclubs, cinemas, and
all the trappings of a modern Romanian Riviera seaside centre.
The
lowest tariff at the 2-star Forum Hotel is around 18E a day for a
double room, while the most expensive is a suite at 50E, breakfast
and sales tax included.
In addition to youth pursuits, Costineşti
is yet another curative centre for a wide panoply of conditions, with
the spas and resorts catering to the health tourism trade.
Try the Mexican restaurant for a bit of fun, which gives
Costineşti a perversely Baja California feel.
If you have some information for us about Eforie
Nord or County Constanţa, please
Let us know about it now!
Vibrant Costineşti Downtown
With the looming hulk of the old freighter in the
distance, the main boulevard at Costineşti is
surrounded by tree-lined side streets
The famous folklore restaurant, Nunta
Zamfirei is just up from the town centre, offering fixed price
meals, alot of dancing, centred around the nightly little fake wedding
ceremony.
Great fun, don't forget the camera, and you'll have a
fabulous night to tell your friends about back in Melbourne, St. Louis,
Vancouver or Birmingham. You may need to book in advance
during the busy seasons.
Listen Up!
Some rather good concerts and theatre performances come
to Eforie in the summer months, many of them touring up and down the
coast. Eforie is a popular stop after performances at Mamaia, and
a more relaxed and less crowded way of soaking up the vibes.
With it's younger audience, Costineşti
during the summer season hosts the "Sea's Feast", the Young Actors
Reunion("Reuniunea tinerilor actori"), the Film Festival for the Young
("Festivalul de film pentru tineri") and the Jazz Festival.
The Nightlife in Costineşti
Opposite to one of the northern beaches, the shipwreck of
Evangelia, a Greek ship beached there in the late 1960s proves to be
quite popular with the tourists.
Nightlife is centred mainly around the two discos (Ring
and Tineretului). Because Costineşti is mostly frequented by youngsters,
the atmosphere tends to be here livelier than in the other Black Sea
resorts.
Stopped now for way too long on his donkey, the blind and
crippled old man realised his donkey was stuck in the mud on the
shores of a lake.
He got off and pushed and pulled the donkey, fell over a few
times and was covered in mud. But it was hopeless!
The donkey would not move! Just about to give up and call
for help, the man realised he was seeing light! Light, in
his previously blind eyes!
His first vision was his donkey, also covered in mud but now
looking younger than he ever remembered. And both of
their backs were suddenly without pain!
The man returned to his village along the lake and when his
family and friends saw that he could see again and was no longer
cripped with arthritis, they all ran to the lakeshore, covering
themselves in mud.
Today, the legend persists, and people flock to use the mud
to alleviate arthritis, gynocological ails, and more.
Below: Two kids pose for their mother
with a bronze statue of the famous donkey who discovered the mud
The health resort and health tourism business booms along
the Black Sea Coast, with specialty clinics, resorts and spas for the
treatment of degenerative rheumatic diseases, rachitis, decalcification,
hypothyroidism, certain scaly dermatoses (psoriasis) and many others.
To a Westerner, the claims made may indeed seem a bit
much, but the adherents and testimonials are hard to deny, so giving
these traditional Romanian treatment a go may indeed be at the least
enjoyable.
But, this section of the coast has been known for it's
bathing hotels since the twin hotels of The Park and The Baths went up
in Edwardian times (which were Carolingian times in Romania), when
Eforie Sud was the height of luxury.
The tradition lives on to this day, and you can be
assured of receiving the top therapies, whether it involves hot mud, a
good rub-down, or some other more traditional spa treatments!
Shop Shop Shop
There is a Selgros, Dorally, Metro, and Practiker (and
many other main hypermarket type of stores) all within easy reach of
Eforie Nord in Agigea just to the north over the Danube-Black Sea canal
bridge.
This is another reason that the Eforie Nord area wins our
top pick for your Black Sea holiday -- it really does marry the
convenience of the city with the charm of a seaside village, in some
ways like Carmel and Monterey in California, or Redland Bay near
Brisbane in Queensland.
It is this proximity to "the real world", including the
airport near Constanţa, which give Eforie that extra advantage over
resorts to the south, especially if you're only on the sea shore for a
few days (Romania does after all have some other interesting things,
like Dracula's Castle!)
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You can drive a rental car from Bucharest or the airport, take a
maxi-taxi or bus from the
Constanţa train station, or arrange for a pick-up with your
accommodation if they offer that from the airport or train station.
Since Eforie is so close (15 minutes south of the
Constanţa station), almost any option will be sufficient to
finish your journey to the Romanian Riviera.
Driving
If you do have a car, the new A2 "Freeway of the Sun", linking
Bucharest with the sea coast is a great driver, and you can easily drive
to Eforie Nord or Costineşti in under half a day.
With fully controlled access, overpasses and well graded exit ramps,
the freeway is almost 100% completed through to
Constanţa.
Going south, it's mostly 2-way traffic down to Eforie and Costineşti.
The Train Station at Costineşti
Yes, the young crowd enjoys the cheap trains
at this little station!
The Constanţa Train Station
Most people on their way to the resort town
beaches go through Constanţa
train station.
Constanţa Train
Station, Strada Victoriei 1 +40 (241) 617 930
Although most trains from Buchrest stop at the
Constanţa
station, three or four services daily run down the coast to Eforie Nord
and Costineşti.
A first class ticket on the excellent Blue Arrow service from Bucharest
is about 25RON, and well worth the extra 10RON or so over second class.
The 120 minute ride from Bucharest's Obor train station runs three times
daily; you can get slower trains during other times of the day if
needed, or if you want to stop along the way (little need however).
The Rapid and Accelerat services take just over 4˝
hours and make 6 stops on the way to Eforie Nord station, starting at
Obor station in Bucharest.
Some trains continue south along the sea coast to the
Eforie and Costineşti stops of
stopping at
Eforie Nord, Eforie Sud Hm, Costinesti, and then
Costineşti Tabăra hc, offering first-class service through to the
southern Black Sea city of Mangalia.
If you need to stop at Agigea Nord or Agigea Ecluza before Eforie, or
need to get of at Tuzla south of Costineşti, take
the Personal class train. It's not as nice as the others, but
Personal trains have second class carriages, which have the benefit of
having a bit more room for larger suitcases. The Personal
also stops at the main Eforie stops used by the Rapid and Accelerat
services.
Ask for a fare with a taxi driver at the Constanţa
bus station if you have the budget and are in the mood for some
door-to-door service on your trip down to Eforie or
Costineşti.
Otherwise, coming in from Bucharest by train or bus, if you're switching
to a maxi-taxi at either the main southern bus station or adjacent train
station, the maxi-taxis are easy to find in the lot just south of the
main train station.
Both busses and maxi-taxis have services locally and to all major near
beach resort destinations including Eforie Nord, Eforie Sud,
Techirghiol, Costineşti, Tuzla, and all stops along the way.
Carpatair to Constanţa
Early morning flights to Bucharest and on to
Timişoara about 3 or 4 times weekly.
Check out the
Carpatair website for more details.
Even though the main airports at Bucharest are only 90 minutes away by
maxi taxi, the
Constanţa airport, about a half hour to the northwest of the town
centre, offers flights to Bucharest,
Timişoara, and even Budapest.
The national carrier
Tarom offers a bus service to Constanţa,
although why they can't manage at least an ATR42 turboprop into
Constanţa a few times a week is a yield
management mystery.
The summer is warm, dry and sunny with a July average of 23 °C. The
main town of Constanţa rarely experiences very hot days often found in
the interior, because of the moderating influence of the Black Sea.
Summer settles around June 15 and ends in late September.
The autumn starts late September, and it's long and relatively
warm. Nights are still tropical (temperatures over 20 °C) on an
average of 10 days in September. September is often warmer than
June, because of the heat accumulated by the Black Sea. The first
frost occurs on average on November 19.
The winter on the Romanian sea coast is much balmier compared to
other regions in southern Romania. It has very little snow but can
be very windy and thus, unpleasant. Winter arrives much later than
in the interior and December weather is often balmy with high
temperatures reaching 12 °C. Average January temperature is +0.4 °C.
The spring arrives early but it's very cool. Often thanks to
fresh spring winds in April and May, the Black Sea coast is even a
bit cooler than the wide Wallachian plains of Romania.
The Astoria Hotel, Eforie Nord
The understated leafy elegance of this property
makes it a great value, close to the beaches and restaurants and
expertly managed by the Europa Hotel
Designed by award-winning Romanian architects,
the shimmering blue of the Hotel Europe rests behind a more
traditional style hotel at Eforie Nord's southern beach area.
Know of a property or some information we missed?
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This website is a
general tourist guide, designed to help English-speaking tourists
understand Romania, and as such, provides historical
information for the interest of our traveller readers. History
can be a contentious issue, and we welcome input where readers think
clarification or correction is advisable. Please
e-mail us here
if you have questions or comments about anything in this history
section.
The History of Eforie and Techirghiol
Early Hamangia Amphora
Being able to store foods made early beach life
for the Hamangia culture alot easier!
Lake Techirghiol on the Main Roman Road
We're not sure what the lake was called during the Roman occupation
of Scythia minor (Dobrogea). If you know,
e-mail us, thanks
Even Og the Caveman loved the Black Sea Coast. He
and his stone-age family, members of the second Hamangia-Cernavoda
culture, made regular pilgrimages to the coast, and some interesting
objects from his middens are on display now up at the National History
Museum in Constanţa.
As part of Roman Moesia Inferior, later known as Northern
Dobrogea, the Eforie and Techirgiol region was on the imperial main road
between the port town of Tomis (today Constanţa),
and Callatis (Mangalia). Coins and pottery found at Techirghiol
during this period show how trade worked between the agrarian farmers
and the Roman traders during this time.
In
the Byzantine era, Eforie found itself under the reign of Mircea the Old
when the province united with Wallachia. The first documented reference
of the Techirghiol region was in 1560, when the area was mentioned as
"Tekfür-köy" to a Moldovan prince, in a letter from Suleyman the
Magnificent, the Ottoman Sultan.
"Tekfür-köy" means "Striped-lake", referring to the
alternating wispy grey colours which form on lake water when whipped up
in the winds which flow across Lake Techirghiol. "Tekir" in
modern Turkish also means "salty" or "bitter".
Whatever the exact source of the lake name, it is the testimonial of
the local Ottoman commander based at the lake, Said Pasa, which boosted
the lake's profile across the empire. After the commander took
several mud baths, he reported his sore and broken arm healed and
feeling much, much better (see
the donkey story above).
Eventually, after a few battles against the Turks where
the nascent Romania was allied with the Russians, Dobrogea became part
of Romania on December 1st, 1878.
With Romanian troops suddenly
everywhere, a land-grab ensued and Mihail Kogalniceanu snapped up
properties around the lake. He also built a public fountain in the
village, while in Tuzla he founded the orthodox chapel.
Towards the end of the 19th century, the first
examinations of the water and mud were made, and the first balneal
(bathing) establishments were fitted out. Realising the potential,
in 1891 the first hotel and cold baths establishment in Techirghiol
opened, the Hagi Pandele. Two years later, the Eforie Civic
Hospital, a Bucharest-based charity, bought from the Home Ministry the
land for the construction of a children's clinic for seaside therapies.
For this reason Dr. N. G. Chernbach founded the Seaside
Sanatorium for Children, most of whom were suffering from tuberculosis.
Quite the humanitarian, he vowed the facility was "destined to
regenerate the children with tuberculosis in the bloom of their youth,
and to save, through the clinic's treatment, an entire generation of
from falling prey to the most implacable enemy on the back of humanity."
The barren terrain of the two Eforie communities was
quickly transformed by the planting of pines and acacia. The plans
for the town were drawn up in 1894 with a school and stores (geamie)
located along the perimeter.
In 1901 the Hotel Europe went up for lodging the sick
kids, and another on the banks of Lake Techirghiol, the first vilas
going up after 1908. There was a huge rush in the 1920s as
villa after villa and hotel after hotel was erected to cash in on the
big tourist boom, as both wealthy and fledgling middle class
Bucharesteans hit the coast in the summer months. The
amenities in Eforie were suddenly world-class, including top-notch
luxury hotels, and a casino too.
Running water was introduced in 1936, and during the
1940s the first tourist hotels went up along with more villas and
administrative buildings.
The Heroes' monument to WWI soldiers lost from the
community (176) was put up in 1931, and the wooden church (made in far
away Maramureş and transported to Sinaia by King
Carol II in 1951) was moved in 1951 to Techirghiol.
On the premises of the local nunnery you can hear a fountain a sculpture
of St. Pantelimon signed by Ion Jalea.
The Casino in the Sea at Costineşti
Ion Movilă's inovative casino in the sea brought
fame to the Eforie Sud resort (then called Carmen Sylva, who became
Romania's Queen Elizabeth).
Until the end of the 19th century, you would not have
heard of the Eforie Sud region except for pasture and agricultural
reasons. Where the town's post office is today were a stable
and sheep pasture until the late 1800s.
But by 1898 the town was known as Techirghiol-Movilă,
or Movilă Baths and was known as this until 1920,
when the name changed to "Carmen Sylva" until the Communists took over,
and felt that Vasile Roaită was a more fitting name.
Then again in 1962, the Communists gave it the more linear name it has
today. The owner of the little town of Movilă decided to
build two big hotels, The Park and The Baths, and in the ten years from
1903 to 1913, roughly fifty little villas as part of balneal hotels
cropped up.
Between the two world wars, the seaside resort town of
"Carmen Sylva", as it was known between 1920 and 1948, was considered
the most luxurious resort on all of the Romanian Riviera, and was by far
the most sought-after by tourists heading for the bathing hotels of the
Black Sea coast.
After years of explosive growth based on the booming
middle-class tourist trade, in 1927 the town became independent of the
Tuzla commune to the south, and was recognised as a bathing station in
1928, becoming a proper town in 1929. Administratively,
Eforie Nord and Eforie south are a single township with the
administrative offices at Eforie Sud.
The villages of Schitu and Costineşti
which preceded the resort function were founded in the 19th
century by German settlers on land was owned by Romanian industrialist
Emil Costinescu, thus giving the resort it's present-day name.
Both Costineşti and Schitu were
sited in the area due to a water source, with wells constructed and
fields cultivated. Costinescu, the owner at the time of much of
the lands settled, had bought the farmland from Vasile Kogalniceanu, the
son of Mihail Kogalniceanu, a Romanian Prime Minister from 1863-1865 and
president of the Romanian Academy from 1887-1890. The elder
Kogălniceanu had "acquired" much of the land in the area when Romanian
troops seized the territory from the Ottoman empire in 1878.
In June 1949, the first amenities were started for the
Young Pioneers Camp at Costineşti, and then in
1956, the International Students' Camp was inaugurated, called the "Blue
Camp". In 1960 the first buildings went up and a music festival
was held, beginning a phenomenon unique in Europe, subsequently the home
of many cultural, artistic and sporting events.
Fun in the Waves at Costineşti
The young crowd has alot of loud fun here, so
turn up the volume and get ready for a party that doesn't end until
the ATM doesn't work.
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