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part of the Maramureş region of Romania! Discover historic Satu Mare and
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Satu Mare (pronunciation in Romanian: /'sa.tu 'ma.re/; Hungarian:
Szatmárnémeti; German: Sathmar) is a city with a population of 115,000 and
the capital of Satu Mare County, Romania.
Satu Mare is the origin of the Satmar community of Hasidic Jews, now
residing in New York City, Jerusalem, London, and other places.
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Satu Mare
The Dacia Hotel
Photo: by Frans Vannes
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This website is a
general tourist guide, designed to help English-speaking tourists
understand Romania, and as such, provides historical
information for the interest of our traveller readers. History
can be a contentious issue, and we welcome input where readers think
clarification or correction is advisable. Please
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if you have questions or comments about anything in this history
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Early Satu Mare History
Satu Mare Monument
The area of Satu Mare has been inhabited since the stone age. The
archeological discoveries made in Ţara Oaşului, Ardud, Medieşu Aurit,
Homorod and other places have unearthed abundant evidence regarding the
Stone Age and Bronze Age settlements in this area.
A fortress by the name of Zotmar (Castrum Zotmar) was mentioned in the
Gesta Hungarorum as being in the lands ruled by Menumorut in the early
10th century. According to the chronicle, the fortress was taken by the
Magyars after three days of fighting. In 1006 Germans were settled around
the fortress by the Hungarian queen Gizella. Later, more Germans settled
in the town of Mintin, across the Someş river.
After 1543 the fortress, then owned by the Báthory family, was reinforced
and a moat was built around it. The fortress was under siege by the
Ottomans in 1562 and later destroyed by the Habsburg Monarchy (Austrian
Habsburgs). The Austrian Lazar Schwendi, using the latest Italian
fortification techniques, rebuilt the fortress. In 1703 the whole city
burned down.
In 1721, Satu Mare, united with Mintiu/Mintin, became a "royal free city"
and prospered as an important center of trade and craftsmanship.
In the 18th century much of the city was rebuilt and among the landmarks
from that time are the old City Hall, the inn and several churches.
At the end of the 1760s the population rose to about 5,000 people.
In 1804, a Roman Catholic Bishopric was established in the city.
In 1902, the first Hasidic Rabbi to settle in Satu Mare, Rabbi Yisachar
Bertchi Leifer, the son of the famous Rabbi Mordechai Leifer of Nadvorna,
moved from Selish to Satu Mare, where he gathered a large following until
his passing in 1906. He was buried in the local Jewish Cemetery, and his
grave is still visited by hundreds of Hasidim each year.
According to the census of 1910, Satu Mare had a population of 45,000, out
of which 94.5% were Magyars (including the Hungarian-speaking Jews).
On 2 March 1919, Hungarian Prime minister Mihály Károlyi delivered a
historic speech in Satu Mare in front of the Székely Division: "we'll
fight for our country". It came as an answer to the dispute over the
Austro-Hungarian legacy at the end of World War I.
On 20 March 1919 a representative of the Allies in Budapest handed Károlyi
a Note ordering him to evacuate a further area of central Hungary for the
benefit of the Romanians. The new cease-fire line was: Satu Mare - Carei -
Oradea - Salonta - Arad. Count Károlyi's government resigned, and
Bolsheviks led by Béla Kun replaced his government.
On 16 April 1919 the Romanian Army started an attack across the cease-fire
line against the Hungarian Soviet Republic, and marched on Satu Mare on 19
April.
In 1920 Satu Mare became part of Romania. In 1930 it was the 15th
largest city of Romania, with a population of 51,495.
More than half of those who fled Poland after the Nazi German September
invasion of 1939 went to Romania and Hungary, passing through Satu Mare.
As a consequence of the Second Vienna Award, on 30 August 1940, the city
was given to Hungary with the rest of Northern Transylvania.
During World War II, Satu Mare and the surrounding areas were the stage of
many deportations carried out by the Hungarian government, and Antisemitic
violence was a common reality in the life of Satu Mare while the city was
under Hungarian occupation. In memory of the victims of the crimes
committed by the Hungarians and German Nazis in the Satu Mare area, a
monument has been raised in front of the Satu Mare Synagogue.
Despite the many casualties and discriminatory measures, however, the
bulk of the Jews of Northern Transylvania, like those of Hungary as a
whole, lived in relative physical safety, convinced that they would
continue to enjoy the protection of the conservative-aristocratic
government. This conviction was shattered almost immediately after the
German occupation of Hungary on March 19, 1944.
Some details relating to the ghettoization of the Jews in Northern
Transylvania were discussed and finalized at two conferences chaired by
László Endre (undersecretary of State in the Ministry of the Interior).
These were attended by the top Hungarian officials in charge of the Final
Solution and representatives of the various counties and municipalities,
including the county prefects and/or deputy prefects, mayors, and the
police and gendarmerie commanders of the affected counties. The first
conference was held in Satu Mare on April 6, 1944, and was devoted to the
"de-Jewification" operations in the counties of the Hungarian Gendarmerie
(Csendőrség) District IX, namely Bistriţa-Năsăud, Bihor, Cluj, Satu Mare,
Sălaj, and Someş.
The area was recovered by Romanian troops and the Soviet Red Army on 25
October 1944 after the intense battle of Carei. During the war at least
18,000 Jews from the Satu Mare area were deported and murdered in
concentration and extermination camps as part of the Holocaust.
By 1950 Satu Mare once again had roughly the same population as in 1930.
It took almost three decades for Satu Mare to become a properous city once
again. In the 1970s the city was subject to an extensive process of
modernization undertaken by the Romanian Communist government of that time
after the floods that took place on 14 May 1970. The most visible
achievement of the reconstruction process was the impressive building of a
city hall that features a unique architecture–the symbol of the city. The
1977 census was the first to show Hungarians in a minority. The collapse
of Communism placed Satu Mare into a long period of stagnation during the
1990s when it lost around 20,000 inhabitants due to the closing down of
many industrial plants.
Nowadays Satu Mare is a dynamic city with an industry that is entering the
global economy. A considerable number of the inhabitants are active as
guest workers, mostly in Western Europe, while their families remain based
in Satu Mare.
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