Looming over the Town

Orienting yourself in the city centre is very straightforward, thanks to the looming Princely Citadel, or Citadel of the Suceava Throne which can be seen from most of the main streets.

Perched on a plateau on the eastern side of town that Petru I Musat laid the first foundation stone in 1388.  From there the first rulers of Moldavia (or Moldova) ran their rich empires from Musat, through to Alexander the Good, and most famous of all, Stephen the Great, followed by others.

The system fortifications constructed in Moldova at the end of the 14th century were primarily designed to counter the danger of the invading Ottoman Turks from the south.

All manner of fortification techniques were used from rammed earth and wood to stone and brick. Prince Petru I Musat (1375-1391) oversaw the building of the citadel with defence of walls 10m high and 2m thick and great rook towers on the corners.

Stephen the Great and Holy

During the rule of the grandson of Alexander the Good, Stephen the Great and Holy, Prince of Moldova, the citadel was given an extra defensive ring, along with a series of ditches to better defend the complex.

Bridges to accommodate troops and supplies were then built over the new wide moat-like perimeter trenches. It was from within the walls of these massive ramparts that the great Turkish Sultan Mehmed the Second, and was fought off during the campaigns of 1476 when Stephen was just 16.

A popular leader in his time, Stephen the Great was revered by the local peasantry is roughly translated as:
Stephen, Stephen, the great Lord,
Has no equal in the world
Except the splendid sun!
The whole world is in amazement:
For the land is small, the land is strong,
Yet the foe could not advance!

The Citadel served for many years as the capital city of Moldavia, far enough away from the marauding Turks to make a good stronghold in the foothills of the Carpathians.

Stephen defended the citadel from the Turks with the help of local free peasants, whose right to own land was directly tied to their military service in Stephen's army.

The peasants enjoyed the good life under the rule of Stephen the Great, because Romania had no tradition of serfdom or a feudal system like in the rest of Europe.

That system of oppression did not come for another 100 years, introduced by Michael the Brave who forced peasants into servitude with Romania's first feudal laws.  The feudal system in Suceava and Bucovina was not disbanded until the Austrians released the serfs by proclamation in 1848.  And it was in this citadel Stephen the Great died on the 2nd of July 1504.

The key points of the citadel's defences were mostly dismantled by Dumitrascu Cantacuzino in 1675, following the instructions of the ever-nervous Turks.

Parts of the great citadel from time to time roped off due to ongoing archaeological works.

 Major restoration works took place in the late 1800s and began in the early communist era in the 1950s and 1960s. Luckily, during the communist era, archaeology was always considered an area of little real interest by the political police. Archaeologists across the country continued their work on the great citadel from World War II to the fall of the Ceausescu regime in 1989.

The whole fortress complex good for a bit of family fun, and can be seen with kids running all over the walls on summer days, hopefully exhausting themselves on the circular, circular staircases before a lunch at a nearby terasa.

Today, the entire complex provides the visitor with an insight into mediaeval life, with some stunning vistas including moats and round turrets, castle walls and on  foggy days, a truly inspiring glimpse back into the glory days Moldovan history.

Open Summer Months 8am - 8p, Autumn 9am - 6pm, Winter 10am - 6pm. 

Admission 1.50RON, Children 0.50RON. Still Photography Fee: 5RON, Video Filming is 7.50RON

On Fortress Street (str. Cetăţii) + 40 (743) 950.415 (the phone number is for the Fortress curator)

The Royal Court of Suceava

The Royal Court of Suceava was memorialised in the writings of Moldovan chroniclers, and in the stories of passing travellers.

The Royal Court of Suceava was described variously as a palace, great church and waypoint at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains.

The Royal court was located on the perimeter of the mediaeval town, just near the St Dumitru Church in the Fountainhead (Şipot) District, which was the old craftsman centre of Suceava.  The foundations are still visible today and it's worth a look at some of the information panels, though, on your way to see one of the nearby churches.

Address: Ana Ipătescu Blvd, +40 (230) 216 439 Fax: + 40 (230) 522.979

The Suceava Natural Sciences Museum

The Suceava Natural Sciences Museum presents the full breadth and scope of natural life in Bucovina. Distinguished amongst the collections is one of rock crystals and gem formations (which Romanians call "mine flowers") and dioramas showing off local wildlife of the zone in their natural habitats.

Address: str. Stefan cel Mare, nr. 23, Suceava Telephone: + 40 (230) 213.775

Like History?  Check out the Suceava History Museum in our Suceava History Section here

The Suceava Planetarium

Opened in 1981, the Suceava planetarium is composed of the planetarium, an education room, an observation terrace and a rather oddly, a German library with a lecture hall attached.

Address: str. Universităţii, nr 13A, Suceava Telephone: + 40 (230) 216.439 (interior 119).

The Village Museum of Bucovina

Distributed throughout Romania are several village museums are showing the local cultures and traditions of the region.

Suceava's own Village Museum of Bucovina and adjoining Ethnographic Museum, display the traditional wares and costuming from the local area, including a mock-up of a Tavern and a typical family household.

If you're not familiar with the concept of the village Museum, simply put, it's a series of buildings from various ages placed in a field, each connected by walkways so you can visit each of the display buildings in turn. For those travellers who have been to Dayton, Ohio, The Carillon Complex There is a similar sort of collection of restored buildings, all furnished and decorated to represent a particular period in history.

Several of the homes representing peasant life, buyer gaily decorated with beautiful linens, textile, rustic furniture, and all manner of pottery and daily utensils.

The Village Museum is located adjacent to the Citadel of the Suceava Throne and is certainly worth a half hour of browsing and looking at the various displays and wares on display.

The Prince’s Inn

The Ethnographic Museum of Suceava

The Prince's Inn is one of the oldest public buildings in Moldova, with the lower floor and wine cellar dating from the end of the 16th century and the beginning of the 17th century.

The "Hanul Domnesc" building was first a waypoint to travellers and merchants arriving in the region, but later, around the 17th to 19th century, the building served as a royal house, a hunting lodge for the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph. Today, it houses the Ethnographic Museum of Suceava.

The 17th-century monument presents principally the ethnographic history of the southern Bucovina region.

The permanent exposition in the lobby was recently opened to the public, and reconstitutes the atmosphere of an inn from the 18th century.

This restored inn was a stopping point for merchants and travellers on the road to Suceava.

The rather entertaining exposition is configured to show the various rooms: the reception hall, the kitchen, sleeping chamber, the larder, the wine cellar, and the knock shop, all vital parts of any Bucovina inn.

But on the second floor are some very interesting pieces of ethnographic and popular art, representative of this part of the country.

It makes sense to do the museum and citadel at the same time, so if you're not feeling particularly fit, you can take a taxi to the top of the hill of the citadel and go down to the museum from there; otherwise, you can take the 20 minute hike up the hill from the museum, using a series of pathways and stairs to reach the top. The view from the top is great, don't forget the camera!

Address: str. Ciprian Porumbescu, nr. 5, Suceava Telephone: + 40 (230) 516.439 (interior 115)

The Simion Florea Marian Memorial House

"To win with the stroke of the pen" is what the biggest folklorist and Romanian ethnographer, academician Simion Florea Marian did. When awarded the 4000 gold lei Herescu Medal for his work, a study of the Romanian people.

This Memorial house is representative of the normal trappings of any Memorial house throughout Romania, with furnishings, photographs, portraits, monographs and a library of the author’s favourite books.

Marian's true utility to history came from his laborious collection and compilation of legends, songs, myths, and images from the rural areas of Romania, many from Bucovina in particular. He greatly contributed to solidifying and emphasising the Romanian national identity in a time when such an identity was becoming more and more important with the union of Moldova and Wallachia.

Many peasant beliefs had their first codification in Marian’s writings, and his research and writings including articles in magazines late in hundreds were well-timed with the spiritualist movement of that era. See more and traditions and folklore section here.

The house itself was purchased by the writer from money he gained from the Romanian Academy for a writing competition in 1883. He lived gentlest at the 19 set in and did a large portion of his work at this house.

The house itself is truly lovely, with six rooms in a rambling atmosphere and was refurbished in June of 1974. It is clear that the curators of this fine monument and lovingly look after the legacy and the spirit of this great Romanian writer.

The house is on the street of the same name at Nr. 4. Tel: + 40 (230) 216 439

The Statue of Stephen the Great

The statue is indeed a monumental work, which proves the great affection and admiration of the people of Moldova for the legendary hero, Stephen the great.

Unveiled during the heyday of the communist era in 1977, the statue shows Stephen mounted on his steed, and an intricate series of reliefs running around the base pedestal depict Stephen in battle against the Turks.

Indeed, at that Battle of Vaslui, Stephen was once again a victorious. This great sculpture was realised by Eftimie Bârladeanu and unveiled in 1977. 

The monument is a good place to catch your breath before continuing your journey up the hill to the great Citadel of the Suceava Throne.

Walks through Suceava City

Along the Armenian way

Take a Maxi Taxi out from the Centre at Piaţa 22 December to the Old Zamca Monastery, a glorious old pile with the tower and stone ramparts, more like a fortress than a religious compound.

Check out the frescoes in the church there and marvel at the combination of architectural influences throughout the complex.

From the Zamca Monastery, you can walk down about four blocks to the Red Rook Church (also known as the Saint Simeon Church), along with its cemetery and the adjacent Armenian cemetery.

From there, you can travel south a few blocks to the Simion Florea Marian Memorial House, and then on to the Bucovina Village Museum, and if you are ambitious, up to Citadel of the Suceava Throne.

The Church Roundup

Start at the Piaţa!

Once again starting out at Piaţa 22 December, you have a wealth of good churches within a three-block radius. It may seem a little odd to tour of these seemingly “normal” churches, when the region around the city of Suceava as the UNESCO World Heritage Area Painted Churches.

But these little urban gems are all within a few blocks of each other and were built during very different times in Moldova's rich history. Included is a chapel for the old Royal court, and Armenian Orthodox Church, as well as many different styles of Moldovan church-building.

The Princess Church

Commonly known as Biserica Domniţelor, this church, dedicated to St John the Baptist (Ioan Botezatorul) is just across from the ruins of the old Royal court.

Vasile Lupu laid the cornerstone for the church in 1643, which served as a chapel for the court, now separated by the main road, Str. Ana Ipătescu. The chapel replaced a previous church on the same site, which was also dedicated to Saint John the Baptist.

The little church is also known to the locals as the Church of the Masters (Biserica Coconilor) or Church of the Princes Royal (Biserica Beizadelelor). It's a cute little church with the belfry integrated into the north-west wall and charming exterior decorations with a modest front garden.

There is a quiet residential street behind it, and you can follow that over it to the church of St Gheorghe. The main thoroughfare between the court ruins and the church can get a little busy, so if you are not brave enough to cross, there are bigger and better churches to be seen elsewhere in Suceava.

The Iconic St Dimitri Bell Tower Underscoring that Suceava is part of Moldova, with its distinct architectural style.

The Church of St Dumitru

You can see the 45 m high tower from the ruins of the old Royal court of this clever little church in the heart of town. As you approach, you can see the great crest of the principality of Moldova, on the side of the tower.

This symbol of the Great Auroch, or Eastern European bison, is also shared with the crest of the Bucovina region with its red and blue background. The auroch (or "zimbru", as the Romanians call it), was hunted to extinction in Moldova in 1867, but survives in captive breeding programs.

The solid and very Moldovan bell tower, built by Alexandru Lapuşeanu in 1560, was used as a fire lookout tower under the late Austrian rule, during the great fire seasons of the late 1800s.

The church itself was built by Petru Rareş between the years of 1534 in 1535 with a base of an older church, as was common in those days. The church is painted on the interior and the exterior, and from an architectural point of view, the church is a representative encapsulation of the Moldovan style.

You can continue on from here east along the main boulevard towards the church of St Gheorghe.

The Cathedral of St. Gheorghe at Mirăuţi

On a little plateau situated about half way between the old Royal court and the citadel of the Suceava Throne, the church of St Gheorghe was built on what used to be known as Tartar Hill.

The original Biserica Sf. Gheorghe din Mirăuţi church on the same site was the oldest church in Suceava, probably originally constructed with wood and then replaced with stonework by Petru Musat. It was however, by 1402, the seat of the Metropolitan of Suceava during the reign of Alexandru the Good, and was the site of coronations until a Tatar attack in 1513 which destroyed the original church.

Rebuilding was begun in 1514 by the son of Stephen the Great, Bogdan III the Blind, the same year Bogdan subjugated Moldova to the Ottoman Empire, in an unfortunate deal exchanging the sovereignty of Moldova for protection against the marauding Tatars.

Construction on the church finished around 1522, under the rule of Little Prince Stephen, the son of Bogdan, and Stephen the Great’s grandson. Stephen the Great's first wife is buried here.

It's an exceptionally handsome building, strong and beautiful and graced with a roof of glowing enamelled tiles. The murals painted on both the interior and exterior were done under the rule of Petru Rareş. To further enhance its grandeur, the upper part of the church was modified in the early 17th century, and the twisting turrets erected for added effect. The church became the seat of the Suceava and Rădăuţi archbishopric in 1991.

After viewing St Gheorghe, probably Suceava's most important church, it's natural to take a walk over to the Citadel of the Suceava Throne upon the hill.

The Church of St George 

St George and St Gheorghe were actually different figures from Christian history, and the church of St George is actually part of the St John the New Monastery complex along Mănăstirei street. 

Although this similarly named church more towards the centre of town was indeed built to supplant the other as the seat of the local Metropolitan (the bishopric) of Suceava, them are never happened, giving Suceava to rather grand churches.

The port city of Whitecastle (Cetatea Albă) on the Black Sea coast was once within the sphere of influence of the Moldovan principality (then under the Ottoman Empire), and in the early 1300s, a Turkish man named John of Trebizon (on the south shore of the Black Sea, in today's Turkey) refused to recuse his Christianity in the face of the local Paşa. 

As the legend goes, the future Suceava Saint was cruelly dragged through the streets, and tortured, and upon still refusing to adopt Islam, was executed. 

On hearing of this tale, the then-leader of Moldova in Suceava, Bogdan the One-Eyed, arranged to have the bones of John removed from his grave in Whitecastle and moved Suceava.  John was then turned into Suceava's first home-town saint, becoming "St. John the New" (Sf Ioan cel Nou), to distinguish him of course fromn the other St. John, the Baptist.

The Church of St George today holds these holy relics, bones from a devout Turkish man of the Eastern Orthodox faith, which gives the monastery it's name of the Monastery of St John the New, although most refer to it as simply St George.

The Gah Synagogue

The Gemilut Hasidim Mutual Aid Society of Suceava was dedicated to providing services and support across the region for the poor, the needy, and those in distress.

Hasidim (Hebrew: חסידים) is the plural of Hasid (חסיד), meaning "pious" or "righteous", with Gemilut meaning acts.

Gemilut hasadim literally translates to “acts of loving kindness.”, typically, visiting the sick, feeding the hungry or extending hospitality to strangers. In the Jewish faith, such acts are considered greater than common charity as they are primarily acts of kindness to the poor, the sick and those in need, as well as honouring the dead, and not simply donations of money.

The Gah Synogogue was built with these sentiments in mind, which the Society built as a monument to their faith in 1870, at a time when the Jewish population of Suceava neared 10,000, when the town had 10 synagogues. Jews were heavily represented in Suceava crafts, the learned professions and in government.

Jews lived in many towns in Bukovina, ranging from a metropolis like Czernowitz to tiny shtetls. To this day, the synagogue is a beautiful example of authentic Moldovan architecture combined with the rich tapestry of the Jewish faith.

Unfortunately, after decades of a fairly harmonious society under Austrian rule, when the Austrians left, the Romanian brand traditional bias against their neighbours of Jewish faith took over.

It had been, after all, a "fanatical Jew" who’d beheaded Suceava's own saint, St John the New at Whitecastle (Cetatea Albă) on the Black Sea in 1330. So through harassment, and sometimes outright violence, the Jewish population of Suceava was forced out over the ensuing decades.

Even Romania's King Carol II and the particularly nasty Nazi-style Iron Guard contributed to the widespread anti-Jewish sentiment in the 1920s and 1930s.

The Jewish population of Suceava was decimated during the Second World War, a time when the population of Jews in Romania dwindled from 800,000 to 400,000, thanks to deportation, forced labour camps, and outright slaughter.  Romania's  wartime leader, Marshal Ion Antonescu was a loyal Hitler ally and viewed the local Jewish population as Bolsheviks. Many proud Romanian Jewish families then, and in the decades since, Romanianised their names to avoid being detected.

Several Suceava synagogues were destroyed during the early Communist years, and today, only the one remains in use, and it's well worth visiting both to model at the beautiful architecture, as well as to the thousands who once enriched the city with the kind acts of the society.  Sadly, the Romanian government is still loath to admit the Holocaust actually happened in Romania during the World War II years.

Civic life in Suceava

While the town offices area does not have the churches or museums of other areas of the town, a walk around the city blocks surrounding the mayor’s office where 1 May Boulevard turns into Stephen the Great street offers a nicely concentrated insight into Romanian town life.

Heading north from the mayor’s office, you’ll run into the park and then the main campus of the “big” university in town, also called Stephen the Great, we can also marvel at the stars in the adjoining planetarium.

There is a neighbourhood market, just behind the university and continuing down two blocks to the southwest, you'll find a high school, named after the famous Armenian and national hero Spiru Haret. Heading backwards the main drag, you'll cross the grounds of the County Hospital, which may well make you stop complaining about the health-care service back home.

On the way back Boulevard 1 May look as the sports arena and on to the local soccer team, the pride of Suceava

The Bosanci Floral Reserve

If the day is nice and Suceava and the inspiration hits you, head for the piata so for a few fresh vegetables and fruit and then get in the car and drive over to the lakes, woods and the floral reservation of Bosanci.

If you're not driving, the InterTrans maxi taxi company plays the route several times a day, taking about 15 minutes.

Just 7 km from the heart of Suceava, this local wonderland of all things floral and natural will delight the eye, particularly after you've spent the last week touring buildings and museums! The beautiful area, a true rural idyll, was the home of the celebrated Romanian academician Theofil Sauciuc-Săveanu.

Bosanci is known for its professional troupes of carollers each Christmas, who  Don traditional costumes, and perform at the town hall, and go from house to house with their carolling and crying out:  "Open the Doors Christians!"

The Bucovina History Museum

Romanian museologists don't feel that they have a complete collection without stone-age exhibits and the Bucovina history Museum is no exception.

But the section on the mediaeval times is somewhat more rewarding and covers most of the region's important history and culture through the ages. Of course, once having been Moldova's capital, Stefan cel Mare (or Stephen the Great) is prominently featured throughout several of the rooms.

Despite having once been the capital of the principality of Moldova, with nearly 150 years under Austro-Hungarian Royal has meant that the citizens of the city of Suceava, and the surrounding county, actually have an accent more akin to their brethren in Transylvania.

33 Piaţa 22 Decembrie

Get Some Mall Therapy

If you're planning on spending much time exploring the painted model streams of Bucovina, and in particular, if you plan on staying in any of the guest houses or accommodation in the countryside, the stock up in Suceava first.

At the Iulius Mall you will have that I could be anywhere in the world feeling, with superstores, supermarkets and all of the bright lights of the city. The Iulius Group, headed by founder and the synthetic fibres magnate Iulus Dascălu, is somewhat like Australia's Westfield Corporation, in that they actually have a series of malls with the same name throughout the country. 

Dascălu is outfitting one of the disused 200 m high stack towers on the site of the old Famos factory in Suceava with a public viewing platform.  At 40m high, the platform will feature a suspended restaurant, and you'll get stunning panoramas of Suceava city in all directions. The mayor's office also has plans for a telegondola to connect to the mall to the citadel of Suceava, about a 2 km ride.

Suceava's Iulius Mall is complemented by those in Timişoara, Iaşi, and other towns.  You can certainly reduce culture shock by sitting at any one of the international coffee house chains in the mall.

Located in the Şipot neighborhood of Suceava city, IuliusMall is a very attractive destination for the inhabitants of Suceava, as well as for those of the neighboring cities of Botoşani, Fălticeni, Târgu Neamţ, Rădăuţi.

If you're not in the mood for a commercial scene, the main agricultural market is just a block away from the St Dumitru Church, along Petru Rareş Street, great for some fruit, cheese, drinks, or something else to make it through your walking tour day.

The Stephen the Great Mediaeval Festival

Each summer in August, the Stephen the Great Mediaeval Festival features all the trappings of a Renaissance Faire.

With mediaeval ceremonies and costuming taking part around the citadel of the Suceava Throne, the old Royal court, and the main church at Mirăuţi, the St Gheorghe church.

The townsfolk of Suceava practise for weeks ahead of time, to make sure their costumes are in order and that they understand the rules of the jousting competitions which take place at the old castles and on the streets. 

Several spectacles during the night-time hours are featured, with scenes from history re-enacted. 

All of the staples of any mediaeval festival are here, from archery competitions and lessons, to face painting, and is supposedly period fare.  Worth changing your itinerary if you possibly can, to enjoy this summer delight in the Bucovina's heartland!

 Attractions near Suceava

If you did manage to get a car and driver for Suceava, a morning's drive in the nearby countryside will reveal yet more of the churches built by Stephen the Great.

The Church of St. Elijah is about 2 km from downtown, and about 8 km out, at Pătrăuţi, is his 1487, the masterpiece.

A favourite of locals (you can see them hitchhiking out here every day), is the complex of the Dragomirna Monastery, a female monastery are full of nuns, where women can overnight in one of the four beds for an ecclesiastical slumber. Definitely check out the illuminated manuscripts done by the monastery's founder, talented artist.

It's near the Mitocu Dragomirnei commune (“Mitocu” meaning the little adjacent buildings, or satellite community near a main monastery, often with lodging), about 10 km from the Suceava city centre.

Across the Suceava river, along Union Road (Calea Unirii) going towards the Suceava industrial zone, there is a town bazaar of little shops and stallholders, which can be lively, if you're in the mood for browsing through the wares and trinkets from the surrounding countryside.

And there is also the Şcheia  fortress, at 384 meters high on the north-western side of the town, was built in the 1300s, with a typical rhombus shape.  The Şcheia community as a separate entity to Suceava city, with its own mayor's office.

Suveava History

One supposition considers the name Suceava of Dacian origin, being derived from davă ("fort"). Dimitrie Cantemir in his famous work Descriptio Moldavie gives the origin of the name as Hungarian: Szűcsvár, meaning city of furriers.

The city of Suceava was for long the capital of the Moldavian state and main residence of the Moldavian princes (between 1388 and 1565). During the rule of Alexandru Lăpuşneanu, the seat was moved to Iaşi.

Together with the rest of Bucovina (or Bukovina for German and some English speakers) of which it was the main administrative center), Suceava was under the rule of the Habsburg Monarchy (later Austria-Hungary) from 1775 to 1918; the border of Habsburg domains passed just south-east of the city. At the end of World War I, it became part of Greater Romania.   Read more in our Suceava History section