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Hiking in Romania

Romania's Pristine Mountains You'll fall in love with a meadow or two!

The photo immediately preceding this notice is Copyright (c)2005 - 2008 Rest Romania SRL, All rights reserved. Photo: © REST ROMÂNIA

The Trek of a Lifetime Awaits!

With over one-third mountains, Romania offers some great hiking opportunities.  

In fact, hiking (or trekking or bushwalking depending on where you're from), is the number one outdoor activity amongst Romanians.

Great systems of well-marked trails exist in every section of the eastern and southern Carpathian mountains, as well as through the Apuseni mountains in the west. 

The mighty Carpathian mountains swath and protect the central Transilvanian Plateau in the heart of Romania, surely Europe's most unspoilt and breathtaking country!

General Info on Hiking

ORGANISED TOURS

Piatra Craiului Trails

Trail 1: Zărneşti – Curmătura – Zărneşti (small circuit) (yellow stripe marker, length 5 – 6 hours). The trail is easy practicable during summer period, and partially practicable during winter time.

The trail starts from Zărneşti and ends here too, being the shortest circuit of all 3. From the town we get out on the road towards Plaiul Foii Chalet (7th trail) and, after a short route, we leave this forest road and turn left on a pass that climbs in stairs under the forest of the Piatra Mică’s ramps, until the crossing point of Valea Crăpăturii (980 meters, fountain).

From this spot the trail starts climbing on this valley, between Piatra Mică (to the left) and Turnul Pietrei Craiului (to the right), up to the highest point of the trail: Şaua Crăpăturii (1620 meters) from Curmătura Pietrei Craiului area. To the left we can see Acul Crăpăturii.

Obviously, a continuous descent starts, near Curmătura Chalet, the over the woody ramps on the south side of Piatra Mică, up to Râul Mare al Zărneştilor’s level, at the exit from Prăpăstiilor’s defile. Here you can make a stop at Fântâna lui Botorog (785 meters). Downstream goes the forest road which goes out of Prăpăstii, by the quarries (Baia de Piatră) and Fântânile Domnilor, leaves to the left Gura Râului Chalet (740 meters) and enters Zărneşti to the south.

Trail 2: Zărneşti – Diana – Zărneşti (medium circuit) (blue stripe marker, length 6 – 8 hours). The trail is easy practicable during summer time, inadvisable during summer time.

This is the medium circuit of Piatra Craiului Mare, going on the 1st trail at the beginning up to Valea Crăpăturii. From this place, we cross the valley and climb under the north ramps of Turnul, over Şaua Chiliilor (1090 meters), then over Valea Padina Închisă, up to Refugiul Diana (1510 meters), leaving to the left the 3rd and 4th trails.

From Diana we leave behind the entrances on the 5th and 8th trail, after which we start climbing Bârna Caprelor, on top of Padina Închisă, through the front of Orga Mare and by Izvorul de la Găvan. The climbing stops on the north crest, at Şaua Padinei Închise (1950 meters). From this point we start descending on the eastern slope up to Curmătura Chalet, and from here (the 1st trail left behind on the left side) on Izvoarele Văii Curmăturii and Prăpăstiile defile, up to Fântâna lui Botorog, where we join the 1st trail to Zărneşti.

Trail 3: Padina Hotarului – Turnul Pietrei Craiului (blue cross marker, length 2 – 3 hours, without the access and the return trip, a total representing 5 – 6 hours) Easy climbing.

The trail starts after crossing Valea Crăpăturii (on the 2nd trail), in the glade called Padina lui Man (1015 meters), after which, on Padina Hotarului, we start climbing on a level difference of 800 meters, up to under Turnul Pietrei Craiului (1923 meters), without facing any special difficulties, except the level difference and the pronounced ramp.

Trail 4: Padina Şindrilei – Turnul Pietrei Craiului (red cross marker, length 2 – 3 hours, without the access and the return trip, a total representing 6 – 7 hours) Easy climbing.

The trail starts after crossing Şaua Chiliilor (1090 meters), on the 2nd trail, in the forest from the feet of Turnul. The climbing goes along the valley Padina Şindrilei, on a level difference of 600 meters, up to Turnului’s peak, without any special difficulties. The trails goes by interesting areas like Peretele Şindrilei, Cetatea Şindrilei and Colţii Calului.

Trail 5: Refugiul Diana – Padina Popii – Creasta nordică (blue triangle marker, length 2 – 3 hours, without the access and the return trip, a total representing 7 – 8 hours) Easy climbing.

The head point of the trail is Refugiul Diana (1480 meters), coming out of the 2nd trail and climbing over Padina Popii, under the southern walls of Muchia Padina Popii (Diana Crest), then by Strunga Izvorului (1900 meters) and under the north crest, up to the top of Padina Popii (2025 meters), where we join the crest trail 13 (optionally we can descend to Curmătura Chalet, 2nd trail).

Trail 6: Curmătura Chalet – North Crest (blue triangle marker, length 2 – 3 hours, without the access and the return trip, a total representing 5 – 6 hours) Easy climbing.

The trail goes in easy and continuously climbing the numerous dry valleys of Martoiu, who are called Padinile Frumoase. This trail goes on a lighter side to the crest of the mountain, around Turnu area, and serves as a base trail for numerous alpinism rooks of Martoiu. It ends on the north crest, near Ascuţit Peak (2150 meters), close to the shelter. It does not have any connection with the 5th trail which is marked the same.

Piatra Craiului Mountains A great view from Curmătura peak

Trail 7: Zărneşti – Plaiul Foii – La Om Peak – Zărneşti (large circuit) (red stripe marker, length 12 – 14 hours) The trail is generally easy, except climbing La Lanţuri area.

The head and final point of the trail is Zărneşti town, being the longest circuit of Piatra Craiului Mare. For shortening the trail time, it would be preferable that the first part of the trail between Zărneşti and Plaiul Foii Chlaet (13 Km) to be done by car or căruţe. From Plaiul Foii, Bârsa Tamaşului valley, leaving to the right the trails 14, 15, 16 and 21, gets us towards Valea Spirlei and climbs through the forest (between Vladuşca and Spirla edges) up to the newly renovated shelter Spirla (1400 meters).

From this point we get to the area called La Zăplaz (1640 meters), placed at the base of the western arduous. Up to the crest we need to get by the area called La Lanţuri, a tough climb, although it should not raise too many problems. Every now and then we get help by using steel cables clasped in stone, passing on a level difference of about 600 meters.

On the crest, to the left, close, we can see the highest peak of Piatra Craiului, La Om Peak or Piscul Baciului (2239 meters), here joining the 13th crest trail. The eastern slope is the place where we will start descending the crest, the trail following the marker by Grind shelter, leaving to the right the trails 14, 19 and 20 and getting to the point called La Table (1420 meters), which is placed right at the watershed of the Middle Carpathians, between the large hydrographic basins Bârsa – Olt and Bâmbovicioara – Dâmboviţa.

From La Table the trails 9 and 10 gets us easily and continuously on the southern and eastern ramps of Toanches mountain, over Peştera village, then on Măgura Valley, all the way to the lower head of Prăpăstiile (Podu Măgurii 800 meters) and Fântâna lui Botorog, where we meet trails 1 and 2. To Zărneşti now the road is short.

Trail 8: Plaiul Foii – Refugiul Diana (yellow triangle on white background marker, length 2 – 3 hours). Easy climbing.

Approximately 1 Km downstream of Plaiul Foii Chalet, at the junction between Valea Padina lui Raie and Bârsa Mare, we meet for the first time the trail that climbs Valea Padina Ursului (to the left) and gets out in Curmătura Prăpăstiilor, under the walls of Muchia Padina Popii, at Diana shelter (1480 meters).

Trail 9: Vladuşca (La Table) – Gura Prăpăstiilor (red cross marker, length 2 – 3 hours) Easy trail.

The trail represents a summer version, advisable for shortening the 7th trail, connecting La Table and Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor points. Vladuşca Mountain represents the head point, from the minimal altitude spot called La Table. From here the trail goes on Cheile Prăpăstiilor valley, where we join 2nd trail.

Trail 10: Vladuşca – Martoiu – Cormătura Chalet (red triangle marker, length 3 – 4 hours) Easy climbing.

Going under the eastern slope of the north crest, over the low and woody lawns on this area, the trail connects Vladuşca – Martoiu and Curmătura Pietrei Craiului. From La Table point on Vladuşca Valley, the connection trail crosses a few provenance wires of this valley, goes across Martoiu Mountain (1423 meters) and down Valea Martoiului close to the junction with Valea Cheii, where we find trail 12. From this spot, the both trails get to the left across a few tributaries of Martoiu, then by the fold in Curmătura, where the 2nd trails comes up, then easy climbing up to Curmătura Chalet.

Trail 11: Curmătura Chalet – Piatra Mică – Zănoaga (blue dot marker, length 3 – 4 hours). Easy trail.

Together with the 1st trail this road goes from Curmătura Chalet and climbs easily up to Şaua Crăpăturii (1620 meters). At this point the trails split, and the 11th climbs easily on Piatra Mică up to it’s maximum altitude point – Piatra Mică Peak (1816 meters), where a memorial monument lies. The southern slope represents the descending track, over Gălbenoasa’s walls, ending in Poiana Zănoagei from Zănoaga Mountain, where we join 1st trail. Descending towards Zărneşti presumes the prolongation of the time with an hour and it is done on the 1st trail.

Trail 12: Curmătura Chalet – Toanches – Peştera (yellow triangle marker, length 4 – 5 hours) Easy trail.

The trail makes a direct connection between Curmătura Piatra Craiului area and Peştera village, heading from Curmătura Chalet together with 10th trail, which it follows only to the fold from Curmătura. Here the 10th trail climbs towards the right on Martoiului Valley, and our trail climbs easily over Martoiu Mountain, through the forest, down in Cheile Vladuşca (intersection with the 9th trail), climbs sustained on Toanches mountain (1541 meters), goes through Şaua Priporului, to finally descend on the eastern slope of Toanches, at the margin of Peştera village, where it intersects 7th trail.

Bucegi Area Trails

Bucegi Mountains Offers some great trail opportunities for mountain lovers!

Trails heading from Predeal

 Trail 1: Predeal – Trei Brazi Chalet – Poiana Secuilor (1h 20m).

The trail head’s from Predeal with a yellow stripe trail marker, it goes under Fetifoiul, through the forests and lawns, up to Trei Brazi Chalet and from here to Poiana Secuilor Chalet, and if you want you can get to Postăvaru.

Trail 2: Predeal – Pârâul Rece Chalet – Cerbului Chalet (1h 40m).

The trail head’s from Predeal, on the asphalted road to Azuga, then turn right on the road of Râşnoavei Valley, up to beyond Şipote
where, close to the road, there is placed in a lawn Pârâul Rece Chalet. From here, on the road, you can get to Cerbul Chalet and after 17 Km in Râşnov town.

Predeal The Bucegi seen from the Clăbucet head start ski-course.

The photo immediately preceding this notice is Copyright (c)2005 - 2008 Rest Romania SRL, All rights reserved. Photo: © REST ROMÂNIA

Trail 3: Predeal – Diham Chalet – Mălăeşti Chalet – Omu Peak (7 – 8 hours).

The trails head’s in Predeal, on the asphalted road, lengthwise Prahova, then right, on the road of Râşnoavei Valley. From here you can get to the chalet, through the Hell Valley on a red triangle trail marker, or continuing on the road Predeal – Râşnov and through Şipote on a red dot trail marker. From the Diham Chalet, on the road to Mălăeşti or Cerbului Valley, you can get to Omu Peak.

Trails heading from Buşteni

Trail 1: Buşteni (885 meters) – Cascada Urlătoare (Urlătoare Waterfall 1055 meters) (red dot trail marker, length 1h 15 min). The trail is accessible during the entire year.

It start son the Telecabinei street, towards the cable car. In all this time you can observe the prahovean arduous of Bucegi Mountains, dominated by Claia Mare Peak, where Valea Seacă a Jepilor bends. Leaving in the right side the old trail to Caraiman Trail on Valea Jepilor, after a pronounced climbing we get at the point called “La Grătar”. Here the road ramifies. To the right, the trail marked with a blue triangle goes to Piatra Arsă Chalet, while our road goes over a little bridge, crosses Valea Seacă a Jepilor and after an easy segment through the forest we get to Cascada Urlătoare, which is impressive by height and debit.

Trail 2: Buşteni (885 meters) – Poiana Coştilei (1360 meters) – Poiana Pichetul Roşu (1400 meters) – Poiana Izvoarelor Chalet (1455 meters) – Gura Diham Chalet (987 meters) – Buşteni (red triangle trail marker up to Poiana Pichetul Roşu, then red stripe onwards, length 5 – 6 hours). The trail is accessible only during summer time.

From Buşteni, following Valea Albă street, we get to Căminul Alpin, placed very closet o the town’s exit. From here we climb a first ramp which gets us in a lawn where an impressive view over the Caraiman and Coştila mountains unveils. Holding on to the road, shortly we get to “Poarta Munţilor”. Few trees, which looked at from the front side seems perfectly aligned, lets us see the arduous. From here the trail continues with a light curve to the right and then climbing to the point called “La Măsurătoarea Urşilor”, where the trail marked with yellow triangle leading us to the Skiers’ shelter from Valea Albă ramifies to the left.

Then we go on a terrain almost horizontal, after which we go down towards Poiana Coştilei, where we get after we had crossed Valea Coştilei and Valea Gălbenelelor. Looking over the forests we can notice Peretele Gălbenelelor, Colţul Gălbenelelor and Colţii Mălinului. After crossing Poiana Coştilei, the trail takes us to the intersection from Poiana Văii Cerbului, and turning right towards Buşteni through Plaiul Fânului, both with yellow stripe marker.

We cross Valea Mălinului, then Valea Cerbului and we head to Poiana Morarului, where we arrive after crossing Valea Comorilor and Bujorilor. Here we can admire the imposing Acele Morarului. After crossing Valea Morarului and an almost horizontal terrain, we go down to the crossroads in Poiana Pichetul Roşu. Here, the roads are widespread like a fan. It can lead us to Mălăeşti Chalet or Bucşoiu Peak, Diham Chalet or Poiana Izvoarelor Chalet. From here we keep going on the trail marked with a red stripe and in approximately 15 min. we get to Poiana Izvoarelor Chalet. We keep going down towards Gura Diham Chalet on a wide and accessible trail, and in about another hour we arrive in Buşteni.

Trail 3: Buşteni (885 meters) – Gura Diham Chalet (987 meters) – Diham Chalet (1320 meters) (blue triangle trail marker,2 ˝ - 3 hours). The trail is accessible during the entire year.

From Buşteni we take Nestor Ureche street, and at the town’s exit we follow the asphalted road that goes through the picturesque Valea Cerbului. During the serene days you can see Colţul, Peretele and Umărul Gălbenelelor, Colţii Morarului. The road climbs slantwise up to Gura Diham Chalet, where it splits on the red stripe trail marker towards Poiana Izvoarelor Chalet, keeping going on a parallel to Valea Seacă a Baiului.

After approximately an hour the trail gets to Şaua Baicului at a crossroads, where the trail towards Poiana Izvoarelor (blue cross marker), the trail towards Predeal through Valea Leuca (red triangle marker) and the trail towards Steaua Chalet (blue star marker), meets. We keep going on the same blue triangle marker and, after we meet the road marked with a red dot coming from Pichetul Roşu, we slightly descend and arrive in a few minutes at Diham Chalet. From the chalet’s porch we can admire the beautiful view of the arduous Bucşoiului and Morarului. On the natural courses outside the chalet you can practice skiing.

The Cross on The Caraiman One might change his mind about climbing on trails through this ramp.

The photo immediately preceding this notice is Copyright (c)2005 - 2008 Rest Romania SRL, All rights reserved. Photo: © REST ROMÂNIA

Trail 4: Buşteni (885 meters) – Cantonul Jepi (1960 meters) – Piatra Arsă Chalet (1950 meters) (blue triangle, length 4 – 4 ˝ hours). The trail is accessible only during summer time.

We will follow the first trail up to the point called “La Grătar”, where the trail towards Cascada Urlătoare splits the one towards Piatra Arsă Chalet. From this point onwards, the trail goes to the right, crosses Valea Seacă a Jepilor and then climbs lightly through the forest, and in approximately 20 minutes we get to the point called “La Vinclu”.

From here the trail crosses sequentially Valea Comorilor and Vălcelul Crestei Urlătorilor, then climbs in serpentines across Vălcelului Urlătorii Mici and gets to a wide platform, where it strips off towards the right on to Brâul Mare al Jepilor. In front of us arises Jepii Mari Mountain. A slantwise climb follows a trail dug in stone featuring assurance cables. After a few curves, we get to Cantonul Jepi, after which, in 20 minutes going through jnepeni on a light trail, we see Piatra Arsă Chalet.

Trail 5: Buşteni (885 meters) – Babele Chalet (2200 meters). Since 1978, the tough and dangerous trail towards Babele Chalet through Valea Jepilor can be done in just 12 minutes by cable car.

Sustained by 6 pylons, heading from an altitude of 931 meters up to 2180 meters, on a total length of 4450 meters, the cable car goes on an average height of 160 meters over one of the most beautiful alpine areas of Romania. Since 1982, the cable car line has been prolonged up to Peştera on a length of another 2611 meters.

Going up towards Babele Chalet we are offered successive panoramic views over Vâlcelul Înspumat, Cascada Caraiman, Valea Jepilor, south side of Caraiman, Jepii Mici, Bucegi plateau where we can find at it’s margin the Caraiman Chalet (2025 meters). During winter time, near the Babele, Caraiman and Piatra Arsă chalets you can find ski courses for both amateurs and advanced.

Trail 6: Buşteni (885 meters) – Valea Cerbului – Omu Peak (2505 meters) (yellow stripe, length 5 ˝ - 6 hours). The trail is accessible only during summer time.

From the train station we follow Trail 3 up to Hoagelor Creek, where the blue triangle and red stripe markers towards Gura Diham Chalet and yellow stripe towards Poiana Cerbului and Omu Peak splits. From this bend, our trail goes slightly at the left through the forest, goes around Gâlma Mare peak and gets to Poiana Coştilei, and then, after a light climb, we get to Poiana Valea Cerbului, then cross Valea Mălinului and arrive at Valea Cerbului, then follow the valley on a parallel to Morarului Mountain’s peak.

After we cross Valea Seacă a Coştilei, we get on the north side of Coştila Mountain, in Poiana Văii Ţapului, observing to the left Creasta Priponului and Colţii Obârşiei in the back. From the junction with Valea Ţapului, we have the opportunity to pass through Numărătoarea Oilor, which got this name because of 2 rocky walls which leaves between them a very narrow space. For orientation, we meet in the left side an old shepherds’ stopover where the cliff is smoked, reason to call it Piatra Pârlită.

A little more to the top, we can see a strong breaking in the ramp called Priponul Văii Cerbului, which we climb fast to get at the top. We climb it without any difficulties and then, after a light ramp, we enter a trail that leads us to Valea Priponului. After this passage we go in front of Morarului, where we find Brana Mare a Morarului. From here, on the Costina Slope, following a curved trail that gets us to another Doorstep, we get back onto Morarului Slope, where we can see Căldarea Superioară of Valea Cerbului very clear.

From this point we find no more orientation difficulties and soon we find the trails that comes from Peştera Chalet (1610 meters) and Babele Chalet (2200 meters). Shortly we arrive at Omu Chalet, touring shelter placed at the highest altitude of Bucegi Mountains, where the weather station is also placed.

Trail 7: Buşteni (885 meters) – Poiana Izvoarelor Chalet (1455 meters) – Pichetul Roşu (1400 meters) – Bucşoiu Peak (2492 meters) – Omu Peak (2505 meters) (red stripe, length 7 – 7 ˝ hours). The trail is accessible only during summer time.

From Buşteni we follow Trail 3 up to Gura Diham Chalet. From here we climb a slanted segment and get in 10-15 minutes to the trail towards Diham Chalet, blue triangle marked. We will keep going on a trail that easily climbs on the crest between Valea Seacă a Baiului and Valea Morarului, arriving after 45 minutes at Poiana Izvoarelor Chalet. Then we go on a curve around the Căpăţâna Porcului Mountain, up to Poiana Pichetul Roşu, where we find a fold.

From this lawn many trails splits; we will take the one with a red stripe marker near the Bucşoiului Slopes, up to Poiana Bucşoiului. From here we cross Valea Bucşoiului, up the crest, the down and cross Valea Rea. The trail keeps going successive ups and downs until we get to the place called La Prepeleac. Leaving the trail to Mălăeşti Chalet behind, red triangle marked, we start the heavy climb on Bucşoiu Mountain.

The road leads us to a rocky crest and then to a watershed between Valea Rea and Valea Mălăeşti. Here Brâul Caprelor towards the Mălăeşti Chalet and Brâul Mare al Bucşoiului unveils. Keeping going on a pronounced ramp, we get to Bucşoiu Peak where we have an impressive panorama towards the high areas of Bucegi Mountains.

To the south-west we see Omu Peak, the final place of our trail. And if we get a sunny day, rotating the look towards the wide open skylines, we can see Piatra Craiului, Postăvarul and Piatra Mare, and far beyond Ciucaş and Făgăraş. From Bucşoiu Peak we go down on the south side until we get to Curmătura Bucşoiului, and then, through Morarul, with Obârşia Morarului to our left, with a last effort we arrive at Omu Chalet (2505 meters).

Trail 8: Buşteni (885 meters) – Zamora Peak (1826 meters) (red cross marker, length 6 – 7 hours). The trail is accessible only during summer time.

We leave the train station to our left and cross the railroad on the train station’s street. After we get over the bridge across Prahova, we get to Zamora quarter. Soon after the Sanatorium building, on the left side, we meet the red cross marker. Following the marker, the trail takes us to the campsite, and from here to Şaua Zamorei, where the trails turns left, on Zamora Mountain top, up to the peak which bears the same name (1826 meters).

Trail 9: Buşteni (885 meters) – Cumpătul – Sinaia (unmarked trail, length 3 ˝ hours). The trail is accessible only during summer time.

From the train station we cross Prahova’s bridge, after it sweeps past Gării and Griviţei streets. Behind the Zamora Sanatorium, we go south on the forest road, parallel with the Zamora forest’s outskirts, up to Valea Zamorei, where the road splits. The one on the left climbs towards Zamora campsite, while the one on the right goes to Valea Sipa, where it splits again. We keep going on the road to the forest’s margin, cross Valea Tufei and continue our trip to Cumpătu, in Sinaia resort.

Trails heading from Sinaia

Trail 1: To Peleş Museum (length 30 minutes).

Of course the most attractive touring point of the city is constituted by the group of castles Peleş, Foişor and Pelişor. The construction of the Peleş Castle started in 1873 under the supervision of Austrian architect Wilhelm Doderer and was continued since 1876 by Johann Schultz from Lemberg. Inaugurated in 1883, modifies and annexes had been made to the castle between 1896 and 1914 by the czech
Architect Karel Liman.

Trail 2: Sinaia – Peştera Chalet (length 7 – 8 hours).

From Sinaia, Malului quarter, we follow the road that crosses Păduchiosu Mountain, that connects Sinaia and Puceasa town. Before we get to the altitude of 1000 meters, where the county border between Prahova and Dâmboviţa is, we turn right and keep going towards Bolboci Chalet, Bolboci Lake, Cheile Tătarului and Padina, until we get to Schitul Peştera and Peştera Ialomicioarei, the limit point of our trail.

Trail 3: Sinaia – 1400 Summit – Valea cu Brazi Chalet (1500 meters) – Vârful cu Dor (length 4 – 5 hours).

The marker starts from Sinaia train station with 3 signs: red dot, red stripe and blue stripe. The trail goes on a wide road and little streets with stairs that shortens the curves of the road, goes in front of Furnica Chalet and gets to a crossroads. The red dot marker will accompany the wide road up to Cota 1400 Hotel, crossing a trail in it’s way that goes to Sfânta Ana Rock. Up to Valea cu Brazi Chalet, the trail marked with a red stripe climbs heavily (15 minutes) in 4 or 5 curves placed on a single empty ramp.

From here you can see the beautiful view of Sinaia and Gârbova Mountain, with Piscul Câinelui on it’s peak. To the left of the chalet there is La Sfârşitul Lumii Glade, named like this because in ancient times this was the place of the toughest climbs. From here we climb through lawns until we meet the bastions of the rocks called La Cetate. In 15 minutes, going around the “stronghold”, the trail stops at Vârful cu Dor Chalet, placed in a ramp that leads to Vârful cu Dor.

Trail 4: Sinaia – Omu Peak (2505 meters) (5 – 6 hours).

Following the 3rd trail up to Vârful cu Dor Chalet. To the north of the chalet, over the back of the stronghold, in the right side a true central axe south-north of the mountain unveils, a long trail (yellow stripe marker), which leads to Omu Peak.

The trail goes on the ramps of Furnica Mountain, leaving in the right side Valea cu Brazi and Valea cu Zade. Close to Piatra Arsă Peak the trail welcomes from the right another trail marked with a blue stripe (which comes towards Sinaia through Poiana Stânii) and closes on to Piatra Arsă Chalet.

Then, following the telephone line, we can go up to Babele Chalet (30 minutes) and over the Obârşia Ialomiţei Peak, to the highest point of Bucegi Mountains, Omu Peak.

Trails heading from Bran

Trail 1: Bran (825 meters) – Poiana Clincea (1640 meters) – Şaua din Ţigăneşti (2195 meters) – Omu Peak (2505 meters) (red stripe marker, length 5 ˝ - 6 ˝ hours). Closed during winter period the segment between Poiana Clincii and Omu Chalet.

From Podul Oprişului (in Valea Poarta) the trail continuously climbs up to Scara Peak. From Poiana Clincii, the ramp becomes more lightly. The trail successively goes by the points called La Stânci and Turnul Clincii, crosses Valea Urlătoarea Clincii, climbs the western side of Ţigăneşti Mountain up to Culmea Ţigăneşti. It goes around Turnul Ţigăneşti and after it goes through La Scara, it reaches Scara Peak. It goes down towards Hornul Mare al Mălăeştilor and then up to Omu Chalet.

Bucegi Mountains as seen from Bran

The photo immediately preceding this notice is Copyright (c)2005 - 2008 Rest Romania SRL, All rights reserved. Photo: © REST ROMÂNIA

Trail 2: Bran (825 meters) – Poiana Ciubotei (1360 meters) – Scara Peak (2422 meters) – Omu Chalet (2505 meters) (yellow triangle marker, length 6 – 7 hours). The trail is closed during winter period.

After it crosses Bran and leaves to its right the red cross marker (Valea Gaura),6 Km away of the crossroads between National Road Braşov – Piteşti, the trail starts climbing passing by through Poiana Ciubotei and Poiana Ciubotei de Sus and out to Cătunul Ciubotei. Continuing climbing it gets to Podul Spintecăturilor close to Scara Peak, down to Hornul Mare al Mălăeştilor and up to Omu Chalet.

Trail 3: Bran (825 meters) – Valea Gaura – Omu Chalet (2505 meters) (red cross marker, length 6 – 7 hours). The trail is closed during winter period.

After it leaves the forest road marked with a yellow triangle at 5,5 Km from Bran’s centre, the trail heavily climbs towards Poiana dintre Văi, gets to the lower side of the valley, over 3 steps (Cătunul de Jos, Cătunul Mic and Cătunul de Sus) then heavily climbs Scara Mountain up to Curmătura Hornurilor, then up to Omu Chalet.

Ciucaş Mountains Trails

1. Măneciu Pământeni – Cheia – Bratocea Pass (1263 metres) – Relay – Colţii Bratocei – Culmea Bratocea – Şaua Tigăilor – Ciucaş Peak (1954 metres) – Ciucaş Chalet (1595 metres). Length: 5-6 hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

2. Ciucaş Chalet (1595 metres) – Şaua Chiruşca – Curmătura Stânei – Culmea Văii Stânei – Boncuţa Pass (1078 metres). Length: 5-6 hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

3. Măneciu Pământeni – Cheia (900 metres) – Muntele Balabanu – Muntele Roşu Chalet (1280 metres) – Ciucaş Chalet (1595 metres) – Muntele Urlătoarea Mică. Length: 3 hours.

4. Muntele Roşu Chalet (1280 metres) – Muntele Roşu Culmea Gropşoare (La Răscruce). Length: 1 ˝ hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

5. Măneciu Pământeni – Cheia – Piscul Turiştilor – Culmea Buzăianu – Muntele Zăganu – Muntele Gropşoare – La Răscruce. Length: 4-5 hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

6. Muntele Roşu Chalet (1280 metres) – Pârâul Roşu – Valea Berii – Stâna Bratocea. Length: 1 hour.

7. Cheia – Valea Cheiţei. Length: 1 Ľ hours.

8. Podul Berii – Valea Berii – Fântâna N. Ioan – Ciucaş Chalet. Length: 3 – 3 ˝ hours. The trail is accessible in times with low level of snow.

9. Măneciu Pământeni – Cheia – Piscul Turiştilor – Culmea Buzăianu – Valea Şipote – Culmea Căzăturii – Poiana Stânii (950 metres). Length: 2 ˝ hours. The trail is inadvisable when the snow level is big.

10. Babarunca Chalet (910 metres) – Valea Babarunca – Şaua Tesla (1347 metres). Length: 1 ˝ hours. The trail is inadvisable when the snow level is big.

11. Podul Teslei – Piciorul Teslei – Poiana Tesla – Piatra Dudului – Şaua Tesla – Şaua Tigăi (1745 metres) – Muntele Chiruşca – Cabana Ciucaş (1595 metres). Length: 4-5 hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

12. Poiana Tesla – Muntele Tesla – Muntele Dungu – Poiana Dălghiu – Vama Buzăului. Length: 4 hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

13. Ciucaş Peak (1954 metres) – Şaua Ciucaş – Plaiul Domnesc – Poiana Dălghiu – Dălghiu – Vama Buzăului. Length: 4 – 4 ˝ hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

14. Ciucaş Chalet (1595 metres) – Muntele Chiruşca (1567 metres) – Şaua Chiruşca (1567 metres) – Culmea Piatra Laptelui – Izvorul Lăptişorului – Piruşca – Valea Strâmbu – Piatra Mitocului – Dealul Seciului – Vama Buzăului. Length: 5 – 6 hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

15. Poiana Stânii – Valea Pârâul Alb – Cheile Pârâul Alb. Length: 2 ˝ hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

16. Culmea Zăganu – Colţii Vânătorului – Pârâul Sterp – Pârâul Alb – Poiana Stânii. Length: 2 hours. The trail is inadvisable during winter.

Some Select Făgăraş Area Trails

Mărul Valley Train Stop to Grizzly Saddle (Şaua Surului, 2110m)

This trip takes about seven or eight hours, with the trail following the main ridge of the Făgăraş Mountains from the west. In the winter months, you can do this track using skis.

Grizzly Saddle (Şaua Surului, 2110m) to Avrig Lake (2011m), and on to Stepped Saddle (Şaua Scării, 2146m)

This four to five hour trek takes a gentler path, skirting around the main peaks (Grizzly Peak at 2283m and Grizzly Head, 2274m), oriented towards the north-east to the Budislav mountains, emerging in the saddle area between the peaks there.

To the right of the Bărcaciu spine you can see the cabin of the same name. The trail continues down in switchbacks to the Avrig Saddle and then along the shore of Avrig lake (about two to two and a half hours up to the lake). The trail continues back up with an climb up around Stepped Peak (Vf. Scara, 2306m), and then levels out towards the east, dodging around Stepsister Peak (Vf. Scărişoara) up to Puha Peak (2177m), that ends up down on the Stepped Saddle.

Stepped Saddle (Şaua Scării, 2146m) to Little Serf Peak (Şerbota, 2331m) to Mount Nehoiu (2545m), and on to Călţun Lake

This longer trail takes about six or seven hours. From Stepped Saddle (Şaua Scării, 2146m), we climb up to the last peak in the Mazgav chain about an hour from Stepped Saddle. The trail goes down to the grassy saddle of Little Serf (at 2123m), and then climbs up again to go along the face of the peak. You then go over a portion with slabs of rock, traverse several upright schists like cathedral spires, and then through some immense blocks of rock, which form an almost impenetrable chain as you ascend to Romania’s second highest peak – Mount Nehoiu at 2535 m!

From the peak, the trail ambles down for about 10 minutes to a little saddle where you can take one of two trails, the Devil’s Lathe trail is marked with red stripes, and you have to hold on tight to some cables as you go around the main stack of the Devil’s Lathe, taking about 30 minutes. The other choice is a bit easier, the Lady’s Lathe with blue stripes, which has a far less steep descent, recommended for the more prudent bushwalkers, or those who are carrying heavier packs. It only takes an extra 10 minutes or so anyways.

Returning by the crest trail, this traverses a gravelly area and you can pick up the Călţun Gate (2180m) where you descend along the shore of Călţun Lake where you can find the Călţun refuge (if needed!).

Făgăraş Mountains This fabulous shield of mountains protect the ethnic Romanian community from the great sweeps of Goths, Slavs, Bulgars, Turks and Magyars across the valleys and plains below for centuries!  Below, Negoiu and Călţun peaks as seen from Lăiţa Peak

Călţun Lake up along Lăiţel Peak (2390m), then to down to Chamois Saddle (2315m)

Taking about 3 hours in total.  From the Călţun Lake refuge, you make a steady climb up to Lăiţel peak at 2390m, where you can check out the richness of the peaks and stand in awe at the glaciers of the Făgăraş mountains. You are amply rewarded for your efforts in making it up to this peak.

The trail continues with a short descent and levels out onto the Lăiţel Saddle. From here the trail follows the crest and becomes a bit more irregular and narrow as we pass by Lăiţel Peak to the left as we come out onto the Lady’s Saddle at 2294m, about an hour from Lăiţel Peak.

The trail pushes through a rocky zone, and cables are placed here and there to help you through in the right of the Mapletree Towers (Turnului Paltinului). A bit further on to the right the blue-striped trail goes off to Bâlea Lake, about 50 minutes.

From the Mapletree Saddle (Şaua Paltinului), the trail continues with red stripes to the Ball Lookout and then up to Chamois Lake (Capră Lake), coming out in the Chamois Saddle area at 2315m (Şaua Caprei).

Chamois Saddle (Şaua Caprei) through the Arpaş Gates (Portiţa Arpaşului) and on to the Podragu Saddle, about 5 hours.

From the Chamois Saddle, you go down along the shores of Chamois Lake at 2230m, and then across by the Hiker’s Monument. From there, you manage without too much effort to go into another glacial caldera, this one called the Chamois Bottom (Fundul Caprei). From here, you climb up to the Arpaş Gate (if you go through the gate, the blue-striped trail will take you to the Podragu cabin along Lake Podrăgel).

Continuing along, you come across the section with chains to help you along, named rather suggestively, “The Three Steps of Death”, going up along the smaller of the two Arpaş peaks. Stop in at the Nerlinger Monument before making the final push up the steep slope towards the big Arpaş Peak. The trail then goes below Mircii Peak into a little depression, that comes out along the Giurgiu Bridge Lake (Podul Giurgiului), and after an easy climb, you come across Podragu Saddle (Şaua Podragului) within the hour. To the north (left) you can just see the Podragu cabin and lake, and you can take the 40-minute ridge trail marked with red triangles to get there.

The Podragu Saddle (Şaua Podragu) to the Big Viştea Peak (Vf. Viştea Mare) and on to the Big Lookout on Sâmbatei (Fereastra Mare a Sâmbatei), all taking about 7 hours

From the Podragu Saddle, you go around the Ţariţa Peak and Giurgiu Bridge Lake and go to onto the Big Ucea Saddle (Şaua Ucei Mari). The climb then becomes a bit tiring along the southern face of Big Ucea until you get to the Ucişoara saddle at 2321m. From here under the summit of the Ucişoara peak (2418m) the trail joins up along the precipice along the north side of the Orzans Lookout.

Here a short stop can help you to make the steep climb which takes you up 222 metres in altitude to the top of the Big Viştea mountain at 2527m.

From here you can leave the marked trail and veer off towards the south to pick up the red dot trail so you can reach the highest peak in Romania, Moldoveanu Peak, at 2544m. This is just 25 minutes from the Big Viştea peak.

After you savour your privileged impressions from the top of Romania, you can return back to the main trail along the crest. This part descends in switchbacks for about a half hour until you get to the Vişta pass (2310m). There’s a marker here showing the red triangle trail, which goes north towards the Big Viştea valley and the town of Victoria, and south towards County Argeş.

In the hollow of Bad Valley (Văii Rele) there’s a Salvamont refuges, and from this crossing to the Saturday Lookout it’s about 3 hours. You’ll go first across the southern face of the Hatapa Bear peak, coming out in the base of the Mioarelor basin, and then down to the Little Viştea Saddle (2291m) where you start one last climb to Big Gălăşesc. From the peak (2471m), veer away from the north to go south a little under the Little Gălăşescu peak (2410m). You’ll climb the southern slope of Slatina Peak until zou get up to the Big Lookout (Fereastra Mare, 2188 m). From here you can veer to the north towards the Sâmbata cabin (1405m) following the red triangle trail.

More Great Trails in the Făgăraş Mountains on the Făgăraş Trail Map

One Trekker's Trip

From the Sydney Morning Herald, 11 Sep 06

Blistered, wet and tired, Liza Power finds trekking in Romania strangely inspiring.

Comfort comes in many guises, but in the pine-cloaked valleys of Romania's Bucegi Massif, where conventional delights such as showers, clean clothes, electricity and waterproof tents are in short supply, an American cigarette smoked in the cabin of a beaten-up truck with our smirking driver, Marian, is as close as you get. A 12-hour hike deserves a salute, after all. I'd prefer a swig of the cook's tuica, but two hours of winding, mud-choked road stand between me and the bottle of home-brewed plum brandy.

Which is probably a good thing.

It's times like these - legs aching, shins caked in mud, heels blistering, lips bleeding from windburn - that it pays to remember all the reasons you trade comfort for adventure. In Transylvania you forgo warm water for silent forests, fields stained pink with wildflowers, and lonely mountain peaks.

A soft bed is eschewed for deserted walking trails presided over by the occasional shepherd, his herd, and a handful of woolly mountain dogs.

Still, there are days like today when I'd trade solitude for a scrub, preferably not in the glacier-fed stream that runs by the camp site.

The cigarette sustains me for about three minutes. I smoke it as slowly as I can, watching Marian as he negotiates the sludge of road left by recent storms and a daily relay of overloaded logging trucks. Now and again rusted caravans loom by the roadside, the laundry of logging workers fluttering on strings beside them like ragged maypoles. Between sharp corners, log stacks pare the road back to narrow corridors of quicksand, and before long the rain sets in, bringing with it a thick veil of mist. Marian slows, casts me a blank look, lights us both another cigarette and sighs loudly.

Colin Thubron once wrote that journeys rarely begin where we think they do. By his reckoning, my journey to Romania began some 10 years ago, with the plays of Eugene Ionesco, the poetry of Mircea Dinescu and the cinema of Tony Gatlif. Through their voices - Ionesco's spell of delirium, anarchy and excess, Dinescu's political fervour, and Gatlif's passion for the Roma and their music - the Romania of late night news reports, with its sinister cast of dictators, mafia and secret police, faded into a land of subversive intelligentsia, complex ontologies, geographical beauty and gypsy music.

Seduced by Gatlif, my original plan was to tour Romania's spill of villages by rail, truck and foot, Gadjo Dilo-style.

As on previous trips to Eastern Europe, I envisaged being collected from railway stations and roadsides by grandmothers looking to supplement their pensions by offering board to backpackers. Sunken beds in corner rooms and breakfasts of hard-boiled eggs, cheese and sausage. Between the pages of Isabel Fonseca's Bury Me Standing, I day-dreamt of crossing paths with a Romany caravan and taking the ultimate road trip - set to a soundtrack of Nora Luca songs and made hazy by tuica and vodka.

Still, romantic as I like to be, I had three weeks, not that much money, and a healthy realisation that Romania by foot was a little trickier than it sounded. So I scoured the internet for treks through Transylvania, found one that didn't dwell too much on Dracula, and paid a deposit.

Four weeks later I found myself loitering in the dim-lit bowels of Otopeni International Airport thumbing my way through a book of Romanian folk stories while waiting for the rest of the group to arrive.

It was there, sprawled across a plastic chair beside a brokendown luggage carousel, that I chanced upon the story of Miorita. A famous Romanian poem, it tells the story of a young shepherd boy who is warned by his favourite ewe, Miorita, of another shepherd's plan to murder him and take his flock. Rather than resist, the shepherd accepts his fate, telling Miorita to search for his mother and tell her a story - not of his betrayal, but a tale of how he married a princess.

And so Miorita still wanders, from the Carpathian mountains to the Black Sea, telling a story not of death and betrayal, but of a wedding, with hundreds of fir trees and sycamores as his wedding guests, the high mountains as priests, the moon as his white bride, and the shepherd's death captured as shooting star falling from the sky.

Much later, I discover that the fable of Miorita has been used as a metaphor for Romania's turbulent history, with the death of the shepherd representing the exile of the Romanian spirit, and many of its citizens, during its history of Turkish and communist regimes. Perhaps more powerfully, the poem's overriding moral - that one must face death with honour and rise above the bitter nature of fate - is viewed as representative of the Romanian spirit and ethos.

Four days, a long truck journey into the mountains of Transylvania, and two days of trekking later, I stumble into camp, a small clearing between a stand of pines and a river, around dusk.

After 12 hours on the trail, the concept of absolute physical exhaustion has taken on a new dimension and the desire for a wash is fast vanishing, much like the final light of day, which at this point runs like a fine chain of gold along the rocky peaks closest to the skyline.

This is not the Romania of Ionesco, Dinescu or Gatlif - or at least as I had imagined it - but it is incredibly beautiful.

A gentle melody - the wash of the river, wind hushing through pine needles, the faint echo of bird calls and dog barks - mingles with the smell of damp earth and rain. Our camp cooks, Emi and Nahlu, have arrived ahead of us and are seated by the mess tent, laughing as they peel potatoes and chop vegetables for dinner.

A fire spits in the misty rain, and a pile of tents, still wet from the previous night's storms, wait to be unpacked by the roadside.

Much as this would be the best time to collapse fireside and reflect on the day's journey, its chorus of craggy peaks, meadows dotted with donkeys and vertiginous stretches of scree, the last light of dusk is instead devoted to setting up tents. Layers of mud-smeared clothing are peeled off damp skin, our limbs are rinsed in the icy river water and boots are stacked next to the fire to dry.

I flirt with the idea of simply sliding into my sleeping bag fully clothed. It's only out of regard for my tent mate that I strip down to smalls and head for the river.

By the time dinner is served, night has settled in around us.

The river, sleeved in forest, glints silver with the reflected face of a rising moon, and the same air that split my lips and tore at my hair during the day has taken on an eerie stillness. The setting seems to spill straight from the fable of Miorita, with its silent sycamores and string of shooting stars.

My hands, numb from river water, spill most of my soup in the space between the bowl and my mouth. Fortunately the medicinal Romanian merlot, bought in Bucharest before the trek, doesn't suffer the same fate.

As the days go by, it becomes apparent that I'm not the only member of the group who arrived in Bucharest with visions of Romany music and gentle walks through fields. It seems most people on the trip feel as though they might be getting more than they bargained for. Of the 14 hikers who started, one is evacuated by day five with feet so blistered and infected he can barely limp. Another leaves on day three on the grounds that the hike is too tough to be enjoyable. Of those that remain, several are marathon enthusiasts, two are female, and one is so irritating that the remainder spend a fair amount of time wishing he'd stumble off a cliff face. It's no secret that long hikes and short sleeps can compromise one's sense of kindness and diplomacy.

Expectations aside, there are days that I enjoy. One afternoon I spend hours wading knee-deep through fields of wildflowers, running my hands under waves of purple lillies, pink foxgloves, yellow daisies, blue bellflowers and dianthus.

Narrow dirt tracks lined with wild strawberries and plum trees link tiny wooden villages where houses wear skirts of vegetable gardens and ornate churches dot the hillsides. We drop into deep valleys carved by wide rivers criss-crossed by rickety wooden bridges.

Boys wearing cowboy hats and chewing strands of grass trot past on horses, and old women appear, their heads wrapped in floral scarves, smiling, carrying baskets of fruit or a sleeping child.

One afternoon I watch a shepherd cloaked in sheepskins and a fur hat sitting by his flock, and I wonder what it would be like to spend a few weeks in his shoes, watching his theatre of blue sky shift through its repertoire of sunshine, sleet, snow and darkness.

But then there are days I don't enjoy. When storms close in on the afternoon of a particularly steep descent, I find myself hanging from a cliff face clutching a sharp, rusted stretch of wire, searching for another foothold as the rain falls down around me, rendering everything I touch slippery, slimy and unusable. The same afternoon our guide, Alex, who has made clear from the outset his opinion of me as a ditzy blonde, issues me with a lesson on how to run down a scree slope and stomp trails through steep, slushy snow. My legs shake, I'm scared of falling, I stumble, twist my ankle and cut my hand on a sharp rock.

My vision is dotted yellow by the reflection of the sun off the snow. At one point, on the edge of tears, I think of Ionesco's lust for excess and his absolute fear of death. "You're not eating to live, you're eating to burst", he once wrote. In a moment of fatigue-induced delusion I wonder if I've come to Romania to burst from the excess consumption of life, or rather, as my mother might have it, to realise that excess is, in fact, largely overrated.

Either way, the days of endless uphill and downhill climbs have their rewards. One afternoon, knees aching after three-hours of steep descent, we come upon a wooden shack. Its spartan rooms - an atrium with a low fire and several makeshift cots piled with sheepskins and furs, a side corridor for storing cheese and a third room for milk pails and blankets - form home for the summer months to a family of shepherds. Beckoning us inside, one tall, grinning fellow ushers us to the hearth, while the remaining three settle on a bench on the balcony, chainsmoking amid a gallery of dog-eared Lucy Liu posters.

Speaking with Alex, who translates parts of the conversation, we learn of news of the world that the shepherds have heard on the tiny transistor radio that hangs from a string off the edge of the balcony. Leaning on a wooden fence, surrounded by six wolf-like mountain dogs, I take in the spill of mountains, fields and forest that surround me and find it hard to imagine the other world the radio, and the news it brings, belong to.

Living by sunrises and sunsets brings an easy routine. Days begin at dawn with the lacing of boots, a cursory splash in the river and hot mugs of tea cradled in cold hands around the glowing embers of the previous night's fire. The hikes take on a pattern of steep morning ascents through tall forests of pine and conifer, which thin with altitude into wide, donkey-dotted pastures by mid-morning.

Around noon we reach a pass, ridge-walking between peaks before snatching lunch on a lower plateau. Alex monitors the race of storm clouds to ensure we're not engulfed by thunder as we eat. After lunch we're allowed a short spell to either doze in the sunshine, tend to our blisters or take in the view, which most days comprises a crown of peaks, some dotted with snow, others freckled by sheep.

Afternoons are spent descending from the ridge, scrambling across cliff faces, scree running, cross-backing down valleys that plunge from open meadow into forest, and then, finally, joining a river as it snakes along to the next campsite. Then it's dinner, a briefing for the following day's trek, a bottle of Romanian merlot and sleep.

Occasionally we venture into small towns where old women with sun-creased faces sell woollen jumpers and homemade cheese. One night we camp by a farmhouse and at dusk I watch a tiny hunchback woman emerge from a doorway to gather eggs from the hens that roam her backyard. Seated on a nearby tree stump, her son dozes in and out of consciousness under a heady spell of tuica and afternoon sun, the bottle at one point falling from his fingers and scattering the hens.

On the final day of the hike, as we descend out of the mountains to a cabana overlooking Lake Balea, I am reminded of another reason one trades comfort for adventure - the joy of a hot shower and clean clothes after several weeks in the wilderness. The sensation of sinking into a bed with clean sheets is indescribable.

Days later in Bucharest, however, surrounded by a spill of regal monuments, leafy boulevards, and sweltering heat, I find myself missing the cool air, space and silence of the mountains. At night, after an evening spent stumbling between bars talking to sleazy bar flies and prostitutes, I stumble back to the hotel and try to sleep. But with the noise of the city closing in around me and the low hum of a flashing neon sign outside my window, I long to be back in a tent with rain drumming a slow percussion on its roof. When I do fall into sleep, I dream of sheep and shooting stars.

Semenic National Park in Caraş-Severin