Western Tulcea

The Dobrogean Steppe Country

In this Guide:  This Western Tulcea Guide covers Isaccea, Măcin and the Măcin Mountains including the major monasteries, wine country and northern towns.

One of the most diverse counties in Romania, County Tulcea has arid mountains near Măcin, steppe country, wineries, highland forests, inland lakes and the massive Danube Delta wetlands. See too our City of Tulcea Guide for great sights.  Click anywhere on the map for more great Rest Romania Guides for Tulcea! Image: © REST ROMÂNIA

Other areas like Cataloi, Babadag in the Dobrogean Highlands part of our Guide to County Tulcea, along with the Delta Margin towns like Murighiol.  Our City of Tulcea Guide offers more in-depth information for the city, and our special guide to the Danube Delta covers flora, fauna and getting around the beautiful Danube River Delta expanse.

The Wild West of County Tulcea

We made a different guide for the wild west of Tulcea, just because it is so very different to the Danube Delta or the Dobrogean Highlands.

 This western area is less known by tourists than the area between the city of Tulcea and Babadag in the south, not to mention the Delta Margins and the Danube Delta areas of Northern Dobrogea, all of which are handled in our Guide to County Tulcea main page.

Tulcea Fun Activities, Maps, Lodging, Agents, History

Almost everyone is surprised to hear how the western Tulcean landscape is so different when compared with the wet and green lands of the Danube Delta!

Indeed, the most arid and oldest mountains in Romania loom high on the horizon, home to a unique blend of animals and plants, looking more like somewhere in Utah than the better known parts of Romania.

Curiously, tourism officials in the region tend to think that Western County Tulcea is too underdeveloped to support a tourism trade, forgetting that Americans, Australians, Canadians, and other are increasingly doing their vacations by "living like the locals" wherever possible, for that authentic touch of true culture, great photos, and lasting memories.

As a tourist, Western County Tulcea can be a deeply rewarding region to explore, precisely because it is seldom travelled by those from outside Romania, despite being so close to the mega-destination of the Danube Delta. 

The most amusing part about this area is that it holds no particular snob-appeal to Romanians, and hence is off their holiday maps for the most part as well.

County Tulcea In Dobrogea

The Măcin Mountains The crowning glory of Dobrogea's western lands.

Photo:  Radio Romania

Tour with the Best! Get a great guide and explore Western County Tulcea with someone who knows the terrain!

Photo:  rucksack

Not everyone has time to combine both a seaside and mountain holiday together, but the Măcin Mountains National Park of Western County Tulcea can provide you with those extra experiences and great holiday photos you need to make your friends back home ten shades of green!

But you will be deeply rewarded by the stunning views from the Măcin mountain crests, the unique and rare wildflowers, and the cultural riches of old mosques mixed with inspirational monasteries.

As with so many communities throughout Romania, the birth rate is on the decline, meaning that entire farms and villages have new lands, buildings and potential accommodation points becoming fully available for the tourist market.   What was once a charming farm house can now house a large family for their weekend or week-long sojourn into the mountains near Niceliţel, Nifon, Greci or Luncaviţa.   

 The Danube Flowing North

From Smârdan (on the opposite side from Brăila) until Pătlăgeanca (close to Tulcea) the Danube consolidates and  has only one main natural course, around which there are an immense number of lakes and small channels. 

The Danube really does separate Dobrogea from the rest of Romania, and in centuries past was far more formidable and significant a border than it is today, spanned easily by bridges for rail and road, not to mention airports and shipping which today supply Dobrogea from the outside world.

And the highlands and steppe of Dobrogea (the steppe extends north into the Ukraine) really do encapsulate a different landscape from the rich alluvial soils of the Wallachian plain to the west and north-west. 

Western Tulcea Activities

This wonderland of variance and things to do for all ages requires just a little planning, forethought and good sense in your abilities.

Your choices include rock-climbing in the Măcin Mountains, a leisurely hike or drive along the Beechtree Gully south of Luncaviţa, a fun morning in the vineyards near Tulcea, or a rather inspirational experience visiting the glowing white Trinity of Monasteries. 

Please read on through the town and area guides below for details for what makes you smile most!

 Isaccea and the Northern Towns

 Isaccea is the only town of any size between Tulcea and the Măcin area, with 5,500 townsfolk happily fishing and enjoying the Northern Dobrogea sun.

About halfway along the DN22/E87 highway between Tulcea and Brăila, Isaccea is north-west of Tulcea, and south-west of the mighty river city of Galaţi.   Administratively, Isaccea includes the nearby villages of Revărsarea and Tichileşti.

The Reason for Being

From the Visigoths to the Cumans, the Cossacks and the Turks, Isaccea has simply been a great place to cross the Danube.   Benefiting from a slightly higher elevation thanks to being on the very northern-most side of the Măcin mountain sheild, the land right up to the banks of the river were always just that bit more stable than the swampy areas to east and west along this part of the Danube River.

Isaccea Lippovaner Orthodox Church From Russian roots and using old rites during services, one of the few non-Romanian Orthodox churches anywhere in Romania

Photo:  Rennkuckuck

The Isaccea Castle Walls Not missing a thing, the County Tulcea Museum fills with antiquities from the castle at Isaccea

Floodplain Living A little hut for feeding livestock at the informal juncture of canal and land near Isaccea

Photos:  Rennkuckuck

Fishing near Isaccea By far the most pleasing method of spending some time in Northern Dobrogea!

This made the Isaccea the easy link between the Balkans and the steppes of Southern Russia. The Danube was for a long time the border between the Romans, later Byzantines and the "barbarian" migrating tribes in the north, making Isaccea a border town, conquered and held by dozens of different peoples.

At one time, many lakes could be found in the town, but some of them were dried out by the Communist authorities in order to use the terrain for agriculture.

This initiative was really dumb, as the soil of the area proved to be not particularly fertile. Some of the larger lakes still remain, including Lakes Saun, Telincea, Rotund, Ghiolul Pietrei, and Racova. Sadly, in April 2006, the dyke which protected this terrain failed and the Danube flooded again the areas which used to be wetlands.

 Isaccea Today

Today, Isaccea is an agricultural town surrounded by fields of grain, vinyards, and fruit tree orchards.  

The more lucrative businesses these days in the area tend to be the orchards and fishing industries, animal husbandry, and major quarries have their presences at both Isaccea and in Revărsarea.  

Gazprom has their regional offices in Isaccea to monitor and maintain their all-important pipeline supplying natural gas to south-eastern Europe from the gas fields of the Ukraine and Russia.

Timber is transferred to ships at Isaccea from the surrounding forested lands to the south in the Măcin mountains., and in the past a cigarette factory pumped out Dobrogea's finest Turkish weed.   Today's factories are more likely to pump out footwear and fabrics rather than tobacco.

 To See and To Do in Isaccea

The Roman Fortress of Noviodunum

The Roman castle of Noviodunum stood proudly over the Danube, one of the oldest castles in Dobrogea.   Today it's in the process of being fully excavated from the centuries of dirt which has preserved in perpetuity the artefacts and walls. 

The County Tulcea Museum is overseeing the current dig, with objects carefully catalogued and displayed in Tulcea.  Each summer the Eco-Musuem Research Institute (Institutului de Cercetari Eco-Muzeale or ICEM) features the "Noviodunum Castle Days", where guides are provided to tourists at the archaeological site and specialist staff offer visitors information about the recent archeological discoveries here. 

The castle was the headquarters for the Roman fleet on the Danube, and the basis of civic life for the settlement for centuries, and saw Goths, Slavs, Alans, Wallachs, Turks and finally Romanians standing on it's soil.   See more in History below

The Grand Mosque at Isaccea

With a 25-meter high minaret, this 17th Century Grand Mosque (called "Grand" because it had it's own Imam and governed a few outlying mosques) was for hundreds of years the cultural focus of the community.  With inscriptions in stone and some great architectural features, it's still a marvel to behold on the inside.  On the outside, thanks to the nutty-nut-nut Ceausescu, it's surrounded by some low apartment blocks, not exactly a grand setting.  

The Isaccea mosque like all in Dobrogea, report to the regional Mufti (spiritual leader) in Constanţa.  Dobrogea once had 196functioning mosques in towns, villages and markets, with a dozen seminary schools, 8 gymnasiums and 56 primary schools.

Long a crossing point on the Danube, Isaccea was an important city during the Ottoman rule of Dobrogea.  To this day, the Turkish community at Isaccea still celebrate the sacrifice of the ram each year, or Curban-Baiaram, an important day on the local calendar.

Str. 30 Decembrie 19, Isaccea, Jud. Tulcea, 825200

The Saint Gheorghe Church

The 18th century "Saint Gheorghe" Orthodox Church was built on the walls of a catacomb.  The church was burried in dirt during Ottoman rule, as the turrets of Orthodox churches were not supposed to be higher than the minarettes of the Turkish mosques of the day.  The church is on Vlad Ţepeş Street in Isaccea, who was once a resident in the town during his campaigns to push back the Turks.

Inside the church, you'll find an iconostasis (the partition wall which is lavishly decorated with painted icons that divides the sanctuary from the nave) created during the rule of Moldovan Prince Vasile Lupu.   The icon screen was transported across the Danube from the Moldovan port city of Galaţi.

Also of note is construction works of cathedrals started in 1906 next to the old Saint Gheorghe, still there today looking like ruins at only tall.   Oddly enough, the founding day when the committee decided to construct the new churches was on June the 4th in 1906, which was the very same date that the saints Mucenici Zotic, Attal, Kamasie and Filip were discovered buried here in 1971. 

The Sainted Princes Church

The Sfânti Voievozi church was built following the legends of a Russian, who being in danger of drowning in the Danbue waters, promised God that if he escaped with his life, to construct a church on the right bank of the Danube.  Today, this church serves about 1400 families. 

The Grave of Isac Baba

Believed by the local Muslims for centuries to be the founder of the town.

Check out the Isaccea City Website for more information.

 Tiny Tichileşti

Tichileşti is home to the European Union's only leper colony.  

Visitors are not allowed and the centre is only open to staff and family.  It was established during the communist years and a few residents remain.    For those interested, there is another rarity in Romania at Tichileşti:  A Baptist church!

The Sarica-Niculiţel Winery

 The Sarica Vineyards

Indeed where you have open plains, a Mediterranean climate and colourful monasteries left and right, why not a few grape vines to make the day perfect?

They realised the soil was great in 1954 and stuck some vines in the ground, now producing white wines for the booming export market such as Aligoté, Italian style Riesling, and White Fetească. 

The vineyards here enjoy a long hot and dry summer and mild winter. Due to the unique placement on a plain, bordered by forest and swamp zones, the climate is more mild and humid than that specific to the rest of the Dobrogea Region.   With an annual average temperature of 10.8°C and the average quantity of precipitations is 527 mm/year.

With annual precipitation around 440mm/mp, the comparative dryness of the region benefits the vines muchly. Call ahead or e-mail first, and stop in if you're in the area. 

If you're very lucky, you can get a bottle or two of their smokey Merlot, happy Cab Sav or rather expert Feteasca Neagră.   Check out the excellent Sarica-Niculiţel Winery website for a quick look a the operations here. 
 

The Sarica-Niculiţel Winery , Sarica near Niculiţel  The winery is just off the main Tulcea-Brăila highway  +40 (240) 540 093, FAX: +40 (240) 540 092

 Niculiţel Township

Either a sweet little town or a really big village, hard to say, but Niculiţel manages to pack in the charm, thanks to a cohesive little centre of 5000 residents with nearby winery and monasteries

Niculiţel is somewhat unique, in that it's the largest township in County Tulcea and at just from the big smoke Tulcea, and south of the main highway, makes for an easy weekend destination for the city folk.    The area is great for fruit tree growing and wine grapes too.

Even through the long Ottoman Empire days (4 centuries), the local ethnic Romanians tended their vines imported from the Principality of Moldova (from around Iaşi in particular) providing quality plonk to the Turkish overlords and Tatar and Turkish neighbours. 

Natural Beauty

In a happy hollow of the Niculiţel Plateau, the township is backed and cupped by the gentle Niculiţel Hills, allowing the community to be easily defended in years past, the northern opening to the valley being the only viable access route. 

Beyond the hills looms the Niculiţel Massif, with elevations up to high, not quite as high as in the Măcin mountains further to the west, but they look formidable, covered in the protected pinks, crocuses, and bellflowers of the region.  In the skies over Niculiţel you can spot storks, both the common and long-legged Buzzard, as well as kestrels, swallows and the odd cuckoo. 

History

Both in and around Niculiţel village are remains of Gaeto-Dacian, Roman, and Medieval structures.  From the Roman days, you can discern an old aqueduct, a necropolis and early Christian rites churches.  Later on, old walls of the village  have been uncovered from the 14th Century near the Saint Atanasie Church.

The crypts of four martyrs in a basilica built during the reign of the Roman emperor Valens (c. 370AD), who was busy fighting off the Visigoths in the region invading from north of the Danube.

The early Roman era Traian Wall which surrounds the village commemorates the Roman commander who conquered the Dacians and introduced the region to Roman rule.  Other earthworks found are either Roman, proto-Bulgarian, or Byzantine, it's not always clear.

The Church of Saint Atanasie

This 14th Century church is one of the earliest in the region to have survived as a functioning house of worship.  It was once part of a princely court complex and stood throughout the 458 year reign of the Turkish Ottoman empire in the region until 1878.

Located about to the west and south of the main village centre, there is also a 12th Century church with the classic three-chambered layout.

Culture

Not surprisingly, houses were built for centuries using the time-honoured adobe method, with small branches, reed and/or straw, with mud or dung and reed being used to put up the walls.  The rooves would be reeds or wood shingles.

As a functioning village through medieval times, the village nurtured essential skills and crafts including furriers (the winters are after all a bit chilly), blacksmiths, barrel-making for the wines, and weavers and tinkers.  You can still purchase the specialty fabrics woven on the loom or hand sewn, with the local motifs and patterns.

The annual village festival is in mid-autumn, honouring their patron saint, Saint Paraschiva.   The whole community turns out, many in costume, for the long day and night of celebration on the 14th of October.

Due to the sometimes arid nature of the northern Dobrogean plains, the locals have developed a rain and fertility ritual, the Paparuda, where they invoke the local spirits and their God to allow for rain and for their village girls to bring forth and multiply, on the 3rd Thursday after Easter.

The Sunday before Mardi Gras each year (Shrove Sunday) the townsfolk gather to light great pyres which shine up into the night skies, in their Orăria ritual, similar to the Sâmedru pyres in southern Transilvania (see our Guide to Bran).  But, the crazy Niceluţeleni townies actually roll the pyre down the hills.  Yes, a big ball of fire.  There it goes!  A little dangerous, but a fun local custom nonetheless.

Check in at the Niculiţel Local Council for more information of ongoing events and sites to see.

 The Trinity of Monasteries

 The Monasteries of Northern Dobrogea

Forming a triangle on the map which some consider to be religiously significant, the Monasteries of northern Dobrogea are great examples of the early 19th century building techniques.

The Ottoman Empire tolerated the Orthodox faith in it's northern-most province of Dobrogea, although this came with a height restriction to ensure the Christian churches did not reach parity with the grand mosques throughout the region. 

The Celic-Dere Monastery Founded in 1840, a perfect example of the Wallachian style in Dobrogea

Image:  webshots

A God's Eye View of Celic-Dere

Photo:  Wikimapia

The Towers of Saon

Photo:  Orthodox Resources

The Zoo at Saon Indeed a unique combination for any Northern Dobrogean Monastery, peacocks and prayer!

Photos:  webshots

The Cocoş Monastery, Serving the eastern Măcin Mountains communities nestled in the foothills since 1833

Image:  webshots

 Celic-Dere

Just west of Frecăţei and Cataloi, and 3km south of the little town of Teliţa, the Celic-Dere monastery and church is easily accessible from the main DN22/E87 trans-Dobrogean highway. 

You can choose to drive down to Teliţa from the north, by turning south off the Tulcea-Brăila road, or by turning right to the west at Cataloi, if you're driving south towards Babadag and Constanţa from the city of Tulcea. 

The gleaming white Celic-Dere monastery is completely inspirational to look at, in it's own clearing, looking like the hand of God placed it there.  Named after the Celic brook which runs through the valley, Celic-Dere is classical and impressive, especially for such a small town.
 

 The Saon Monastery

On the road between Tulcea and Isaccea (going west from Tulcea towards Galaţi, Măcin and Brăila), this hermitage-cum-monastery has the advantage of having, of all thing, a little zoo attached featuring peacocks. 

On the last high ground before the floodplain of the Danube River starts, the monastery complex is on the banks of a little river flowing into a lake adjacent to the Danube.

Founded in 1846 as a chapel by monks who left from the Celic monastery who had managed to raise out of the mud and adobe chapel and several sleeping quarters for the monks (cells). 

By 1881, through the relocation to and you Saon of some other monks from Lower Celic to the local bishop, the hermitage of Saon became independent. 

In the same year, the monks from Saon built from the local adobe and wood a church dedicated to "the Glory of God", and two wings for monks quarters in which to this day have remained to the right of the chapel.

The murals along the chapel of Saon were done by the last abbess, Marla Odudencu, together with Mother Salomeea, with the iconostasis being expertly painted by C. Kipirlin in 1957.

The tableaux render a dozen saints and at the entrance to the chapel you can revel in the scene climbing to the sky, oddly enough depicting St. Ifie being fed by the crows.

During the time of Abbot Filimon (1889 - 1905), the hermitage was burnt to the ground, just the church remaining untouched by the flames.   In 1909 the Bishop Nifon Niculescu temporarily put the hermitage under the auspices of the Cocoş administration.  On 1 Septembrie 1909, the Bishop Nifon laid the foundation of the new churches, with the dedication of "Under the Protection of the Mother of God", built out of brick and stone with three dome towers.

It's not clear whether or not the Abbot might have one day envisaged the grounds full of peacocks, guinea hens, and the odd pair of ostriches, who found refuge on the monastery grounds, after their owners realised the ostriches didn't conform to the new European Union standards (they were being raised for their eggs and meat).  

The peacocks arrived as a gift from a family of lawyers in Tulcea, and the hens have been on the grounds for generations. 

They used to have a deer that came to feed, but hunters in the area managed to put that to an end.  Whatever the exact mix of animals when you visit, Saon is sure to be a unique experience!

 The Cocoş Monastery

The Cocoş Monastery is past Niculiţel township, just a little ways up the eastern side of the first line of the Măcin mountains as you travel west towards the national park there. 

Named for the night cries of the wild cocks in the region, the monastery is beautifully crafted and is one of the more interesting and balanced architecturally.

Located from Niculiţel, the Cocoş monastery predated the Romanian invasion of Dobrogea by 50 years.   Founded by the monks Isaia, Gheratie and Visarion, the monastery is in a secluded location at the foothills of Cocoş Hill, surrounded by sweet scent of the linden tree forest.

You can stop reading here and just trust us that the Cocoş Monastery earns our 3-star destination rating for a good reason:  It's Just Great. 

However, if you'd like a bit of explanation, let's just say that the Cocoş complex has it all, from long colonnaded wings, to a fabulous church, lovely grounds, and roughly a dozen perfect photo opportunities.

The Story of Cocoş

The Cocoş monastery was founded in 1833, the founders being the monks Visarion, Gherontie, and Isaia from the Neamţ monastery, who came by the Athos mountains before stopping here.  They came as far as Isaccea, where they settled and bought a small parcel of land and constructed a little church out of adobe, without towers or a bell, respecting the laws of the Ottoman Empire of the day.

This church with improvements made over time, lasted until 1910 when it was taken down to the ground and a little open-air chapel placed (a troiţă) where the alter was to commemorate the original church.

Since there was the need for a larger and more lasting location, Father Visarion became anointed the Abbot of the Cocoş monastery.   A new church built out of stone and brick went up in 1853 with the financial assistance of a Transilvanian shepherd who donated his estate when he entered the church as a monk. 

The first church was dedicated to "the Holy Trinity" and after the Romanian and Russian troops pushed back the Ottomans in 1878 (and thusly the laws limiting the height of the church were mooted), the three church towers quickly went up to celebrate the new rule from Bucharest.

From 1862 until 1884, Abbot Daniel was in charge, under whose guidance a great new bell tower was erected, still a beautiful accomplishment which can be admired today.  Around the bell tower are six friezes.  Abbot Daniel also directed the building of the monks quarters to the west in front of the church in the eastern style, a verandah and balcony along both parts, with a tile roof, indeed worth another photo!

A Massive Cross

The church as Cocoş Monastery is a massive stone building in the shape of a cross.   The hollows on each side of the nave are quite deep and very large.  Above are three octagonal towers, striped with eight narrow high windows.   They tower over the nave is indeed tall and high, with the other two smaller ones over the verandah part.

On the exterior, the walls to the right of the nave have a freize high up with the same on the walls over the alter. The church paintings were started in the autumn of 1914, executed by the Italian painter F. da Biasse in the neobyzantine styule and finished the work in 1916.  It was extensively restored between 1957 and 1960.

The monastery at Cocoş has a museum with old icons and religious art objects from the County Tulcea paish.  The museum also has a collection of old Romanian religious books.

Măcin dobrogea's steppe capital

Map of Măcin Town On the eastern-most channel of the Danube, Măcin functions as a regional centre and a great base of operations for your trip into the Măcin Mountains National Park, about 15 minutes away.

Image:  Cartiere.ro

See an Aerial Map of Măcin Here

 Măcin Town

Măcin Town is a great place to base yourself for a foray into the parks, as is anywhere along the national roads at the base of the Măcin Mountains.

Coming into Măcin from Tulcea, you'll pass the main hotel, some pensions and two holiday camps. One of the the better-known pensions in the area is accessed from the southern end of the park at Caprioara (the Deer, near Cărăpeliţ Step about from Măcin).  

Măcin is a dusty little Dobrogean town of 12,000 townspeople, serving as a regional centre for the agricultural communities north and south.

Geographically, Măcin town is actually a fair bit closer to Brăila, but is considered more a part of Dobrogea and hence Tulcea.  Măcin is a regional centre, overlooking some fairly extensive tracts of farmland going south along the rich soils of the Danube floodplain. 

A controlled inland channel of the delta supplies water on the eastern side of the floodplain, much as the river and canal systems do in the San Joaquin valley of California.   On a channel of the Danube, Măcin even has a port, with the small ships sailing downstream to the north-west towards Brăila

The Town Centre

Măcin is a friendly little town and has all you need for a few days in the region whilst enjoying the mountains or soaking in the Dobrogean culture. 

Check out the Cultural House (Casa de Cultură) for rotating exhibits, stop by the library for a look, and the 100-seat Republic Cinema can be a bit of fun on a rainy afternoon.

The Măcin Monastery

Interestingly for a town this size, it has a nice Catholic church, Saint Anthony's, as well as a Baptist church and a Seventh Day Adventist church, along with three other Romanian Orthodox churches, an Orthodox chapel, and the St. Parascheva and Nicholas Monastery.  It's the lovely wood panelled interiors which keeps this Monastery on the must-do list for the region.

The local high school is named after it's most famous resident, the geologist and mineralogist Gheorghe Munteanu Murgoci (1872 - 1925), who spent so much time in the nearby mountains cutting his teeth on the local granite formations.  

The Arrubium Castle

Măcin is actually an ancient site, dating from the 3rd Century, when it was named Arrubium under the late Roman and early Byzantine rule.   The castle was built with a church honouring the god Jupiter, and the castle also embraced the beliefs of the local tribes worshipping Rhemaxos, akin to the Zyraxes cults common throughout the Danube area of the time.

The Romans based a cavalry unit here between 99 and 241AD and the town of Arrubium also served as a retirement town for veterans of the various regional campaigns, although nowhere near as important a centre as Adamclisi to the south. 

The Ottoman Empire moved in around 1420 and used Măcin as a garrison town, and ruled the largely agrarian and mining area until Romania across the river attacked one (presumably) last time in 1878 to take the town and Dobrogea.

The National Park Administration

The Măcin Mountains National Park have their park administration headquarters in Măcin town, complete with staff biologist (Bogdan Bajenaru) and office for the forest management staff.   Park Ranger Cristian Gutoi will be happy to answer your questions on +40 (240) 571 012, or you can stop in for maps, directions and suggestions, as well as instructions for how to keep the Măcin mountains pristine and clean.

Other Sights

In Măcin town, a few photos at the 18th-century grand mosque are worthwhile, one of the eastern-most mosques in Dobrogea and a reminder of the rich cultural history of this region.   Adjoining the mosque is also an inn which put up Ottoman travellers along the main road north. 

You can also take in the Heroes' Monument in the centre of town.

 The Măcin Mountains National Park

Dobrogea's Highland Wonders

The Măcin Mountains are tucked away in the north-west of County Tulcea, and adjoin the Delta Danube Biosphere Reservation's western borders. In the park, Mount Ţuţuiatul at  is the highest part of these mountains on the Dobrogean Highlands plateau, and have the distinction of being both the oldest and the most arid mountains in all Romania, giving them a uniqueness in look, flora and fauna.

A nature reserve in the eastern part of the mountains was established by Romania's King Ferdinand in 1927.  The King had a palace at Mamaia and often ventured into the Dobrogean Highlands to survey his kingdom's natural wonders.  An ardent amateur botanist and nature-lover, Ferdinand enjoyed the peonies, rare pinks and bird life of the region muchly.

 The mountains are nicely located just over an hour from Tulcea, and for those familiar with the region, have a very southern California feel to them, much like Kings Canyon National Park there.  

This unique area of Romania (and indeed in all the Balkans) can be accessed from the south by driving past the Tulcea airport at Cataloi, and then west to reach the main central valley of the park to the villages of Hamcearca and Nifon in the central valley, which delivers you within easy reach of the middle section of the park and the crest trail.

Further to the east is the home of the Cocoş Monastery, and you can also enter the area by going south from the DN22/E87, the main Tulcea-Măcin highway (see map below).  

The more popular areas of the park include the Pricopan Summit, the main crest trail on the mountain range, the Beech Gulley reserve in the high end of the the Luncaviţa valley on the northern side, featuring the "La Scapeţi" tourist camp. 

As always, please ensure you do not leave fires, waste
or disturb the wildlife whilst in the park!

Măcin Mountains National Park HQ, 25 Isaccei Street in Tulcea  The Park Headquarters are on the main street with the big hotels. +40 (240) 514 720

The Mountains and the Rivers

Most of the streams and rivers in the mountains flow south from the park.   One the western side, where the mountains rise up from the Danube floodplain, the town of Greci is the largest community actually perched on the foothills of the mountainous area.   

Greci was once home to hundreds of Italian stonemasons and their families, working on the rich granite at the nearby quarries in the side of the mountains.

Whilst you may think the mountains don't seem very high -- most in the eastern portion of the sheild are called "hills", you must remember that they rise suddenly out of the Danube floodplain, and make an impressive outline on the horizon, particularly the looming jagged spires along the Pricopan range in the north, looking for all the world like a facsimile of the mighty Carpathians further inland.  They are the prime reason the Danube must travel north for so long before finally breaking free once past them to make the fabulous Danube Delta. 

Thoughtful Protection

The National Park has the town of Măcin and the Greci area as it's administrative centre, ringed by the agricultural land around the townships of Cerna, Hamcearca, Luncaviţa and Jijila.  

Forestry lands take up of the park, run by the National Forestry administration out it's Măcin and Cerna branches, run from the head office in